Are you using lock nuts on the u-bolts for the hose reels? I'm old so I can't see very well. Also, you might want to mount the roof pump up side down so if you generate a leak it won't flow towards the motor.
Hank
Brian C Jackson said
Mar 12, 2018
Nice set up.. and clean and neat.
DirtyRoofcom said
Mar 12, 2018
waxman18324 wrote:
Erik,
Are you using lock nuts on the u-bolts for the hose reels? I'm old so I can't see very well. Also, you might want to mount the roof pump up side down so if you generate a leak it won't flow towards the motor.
Hank
Hank nothing gets by you. I have to swap the nuts on the ubolts as well.didn't think anyone would pick that up haha.
I don't think I've ever had a pump leak. (Everything else has) My pumps don't last that long, bolts holding down the head snap off in a few months and I exchange under warranty. Have 2 that have to be sent back sitting in garage.
Im going the dipstick method this year like you. What hose are you using on yours? This braided seems a lil stiff but it's also still cold out
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Mar 12, 2018
Eric nice set up. You should think about adding a proportioner. Huge space and time saver. I didn't think i would like it and i didn't think the cost was justified but after using one for over a year i have saved on production time and increased profits on each job as well. Other than that nice set up. I love simple set ups myself.
waxman18324 said
Mar 12, 2018
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
waxman18324 wrote:
Erik,
Are you using lock nuts on the u-bolts for the hose reels? I'm old so I can't see very well. Also, you might want to mount the roof pump up side down so if you generate a leak it won't flow towards the motor.
Hank
Hank nothing gets by you. I have to swap the nuts on the ubolts as well.didn't think anyone would pick that up haha.
I don't think I've ever had a pump leak. (Everything else has) My pumps don't last that long, bolts holding down the head snap off in a few months and I exchange under warranty. Have 2 that have to be sent back sitting in garage.
Im going the dipstick method this year like you. What hose are you using on yours? This braided seems a lil stiff but it's also still cold out
How long is the inlet hose to the pump? The shorter the better. We use a poly braid 1/2" hose. You can use either 1/2" or 5/8".
Hank
Brian C Jackson said
Mar 12, 2018
Proportioner would be a great addition to that system
DirtyRoofcom said
Mar 12, 2018
Thanks guys- I'm always open to different ideas and advice. I'm considering getting rid of the 2 large tanks and installing 3 vertical tanks and potentially the proportioner as I've heard nothing but good things about it.
Hank that inlet hose is 5/8 braided prob 10 ft long.
If you look at the tanks I have them piped together w valves. Right now it's set up so can gravity feed SH from the chemical tank to the mix tank by switch of a valve. If I decide I don't like the dipstick method I'll insert a T in the middle and plumb directly to the pump. I get my chemical pumped directly into the tank from the supplier so this gravity system works pretty well. I just turn the valve let it flow to the other tank while I'm grabbing coffee or setting up ladders, bags or hoses.
BlueRidge said
Mar 13, 2018
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
Art O said
Mar 13, 2018
BlueRidge wrote:
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
I wonder who Frank Peters really is ?
Brian C Jackson said
Mar 13, 2018
BlueRidge wrote:
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
If I didn't have my mixing valves outside I would buy one of these.. not being in a box it is easier to see leaks or replace part's
Art O said
Mar 13, 2018
Brian C Jackson wrote:
BlueRidge wrote:
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
If I didn't have my mixing valves outside I would buy one of these.. not being in a box it is easier to see leaks or replace part's
I made my own and its way better then that. Plus the check valves I used have zero restrictions. Unlike them black check valves that clog.
DirtyRoofcom said
Mar 13, 2018
Anyone order one of these from Frank? Doesn't seem to be a bad deal at all
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Mar 13, 2018
I cant see it. Is there a picture of it someone can post?
DirtyRoofcom said
Mar 13, 2018
this one has a 3 way valve for flushing with fresh water. you can also do it by moving the pickup tube from bleach container to water bucket
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
If I didn't have my mixing valves outside I would buy one of these.. not being in a box it is easier to see leaks or replace part's
I made my own and its way better then that. Plus the check valves I used have zero restrictions. Unlike them black check valves that clog.
Art
Did you post pictures of yours
.
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Mar 13, 2018
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
this one has a 3 way valve for flushing with fresh water. you can also do it by moving the pickup tube from bleach container to water bucket
I would not buy or use that. They are not proportioning valves. Too many variable with that set up. Use only the gp valves when building a proportioner.
DirtyRoofcom said
Mar 13, 2018
Yeah he goes into all that he even has a bunch of videos showing how the results are repeatable.
To be honest i cant see why a ball valve in good working condition cant deliver same results time and time again as long as you set it to the same position. i'm not looking to be super exact on my mix ratio. Half the time in the field its just a guess anyway as to how strong it is unless you start with fresh SH every morning thats tested and specifically measure out your water and chem and soap and your tanks are bone dry.
Art O said
Mar 13, 2018
Brian C Jackson wrote:
Art O wrote:
Brian C Jackson wrote:
BlueRidge wrote:
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
If I didn't have my mixing valves outside I would buy one of these.. not being in a box it is easier to see leaks or replace part's
I made my own and its way better then that. Plus the check valves I used have zero restrictions. Unlike them black check valves that clog.
I like the metering valves because they are precise but also they have markings so you know exactly where to set it. Unlike those Micro valves where you need to make a mark on it to remember where your settings are.
Art O said
Mar 14, 2018
Zach Maynard wrote:
I like the metering valves because they are precise but also they have markings so you know exactly where to set it. Unlike those Micro valves where you need to make a mark on it to remember where your settings are.
If your water is full on, your S/H should be at the half way mark!
Zach Maynard said
Mar 14, 2018
The SH valve will be on a different position depending on the surface you are cleaning.
Art O said
Mar 14, 2018
Zach Maynard wrote:
The SH valve will be on a different position depending on the surface you are cleaning.
BlueRidge said
Mar 14, 2018
Here's the mixing valve I built. Incoming water to prime the pump and rinse when done.
Here's the mixing valve I built. Incoming water to prime the pump and rinse when done.
Nice Bret, looks simple enough
Zach Maynard said
Mar 14, 2018
How much life are you guys getting out of those check valves? One of the ones I had last season had a missing spring. (The ones art uses with the flapper wouldn't have that problem).
Western Mass Prowash said
Mar 14, 2018
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
Anyone order one of these from Frank? Doesn't seem to be a bad deal at all
Erik, I ordered one from him a few months ago when he started selling them. Looks like it should work well. You could probably build one for about $150, but I figured I'd buy it put together and then it is easy enough to buy the replacement parts when needed. Haven't used it yet with a foot of snow outside.
Had a plan to go flatbed this year but some financial setbacks cause me to move that to the back burner.
Added a new bedliner
New hose reels
New pump
New plumbing and bulkheads.
Remounted and organized everything on one side of the truck leaving space for pressure washer and add'l hose reel on other side.
Have to secure wiring and batteries
Create waterproof cover for battery charger
Will be changing chem hose soon to green for branding purposes
I'm an advocate for simplicity
Outside view
Are you using lock nuts on the u-bolts for the hose reels? I'm old so I can't see very well. Also, you might want to mount the roof pump up side down so if you generate a leak it won't flow towards the motor.
Hank
Hank nothing gets by you. I have to swap the nuts on the ubolts as well.didn't think anyone would pick that up haha.
I don't think I've ever had a pump leak. (Everything else has) My pumps don't last that long, bolts holding down the head snap off in a few months and I exchange under warranty. Have 2 that have to be sent back sitting in garage.
Im going the dipstick method this year like you. What hose are you using on yours? This braided seems a lil stiff but it's also still cold out
How long is the inlet hose to the pump? The shorter the better. We use a poly braid 1/2" hose. You can use either 1/2" or 5/8".
Hank
Hank that inlet hose is 5/8 braided prob 10 ft long.
If you look at the tanks I have them piped together w valves. Right now it's set up so can gravity feed SH from the chemical tank to the mix tank by switch of a valve. If I decide I don't like the dipstick method I'll insert a T in the middle and plumb directly to the pump. I get my chemical pumped directly into the tank from the supplier so this gravity system works pretty well. I just turn the valve let it flow to the other tank while I'm grabbing coffee or setting up ladders, bags or hoses.
Here's another mixing valve that doesn't have a fancy box.
I wonder who Frank Peters really is ?
If I didn't have my mixing valves outside I would buy one of these.. not being in a box it is easier to see leaks or replace part's
I made my own and its way better then that. Plus the check valves I used have zero restrictions. Unlike them black check valves that clog.
this one has a 3 way valve for flushing with fresh water. you can also do it by moving the pickup tube from bleach container to water bucket
Art
Did you post pictures of yours
.
I would not buy or use that. They are not proportioning valves. Too many variable with that set up. Use only the gp valves when building a proportioner.
To be honest i cant see why a ball valve in good working condition cant deliver same results time and time again as long as you set it to the same position. i'm not looking to be super exact on my mix ratio. Half the time in the field its just a guess anyway as to how strong it is unless you start with fresh SH every morning thats tested and specifically measure out your water and chem and soap and your tanks are bone dry.
Here's 2 that I made
http://www.nationalsoftwashalliance.com/t63087964/gray-34-check-valve/
Art that link is private
Fixed
If your water is full on, your S/H should be at the half way mark!
Here's the mixing valve I built. Incoming water to prime the pump and rinse when done.
Nice Bret, looks simple enough
Erik, I ordered one from him a few months ago when he started selling them. Looks like it should work well. You could probably build one for about $150, but I figured I'd buy it put together and then it is easy enough to buy the replacement parts when needed. Haven't used it yet with a foot of snow outside.