I would go over your frame carefully and even check out the entire rear end. Some repairs and reinforcement might be in order.
DirtyRoofcom said
Dec 22, 2019
Yeah Brett im expecting some extra work will be needed. From what I can see it appears to be mostly surface rust on the frame but i will be looking at brake lines/fittings and everything else. Thanks
BlueRidge said
Dec 23, 2019
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
Yeah Brett im expecting some extra work will be needed. From what I can see it appears to be mostly surface rust on the frame but i will be looking at brake lines/fittings and everything else. Thanks
Break lines... damn good idea! I hope it's not too bad once you get the bed off.
Doug Rucker said
Dec 23, 2019
Dang, looking at yours makes me feel like I could of gotten another couple years out one I just sold....
DirtyRoofcom said
Dec 27, 2019
Yeah the old bed went to crap fast under the bed liner. It was bad before but not like that.
Just picked up the truck today. Pretty happy with how it looks and the service was great.
Now I have to start laying it out so can get this thing built.
Right now I'm thinking the 100 gallon tanks from pws pushed up against the headache rack. In my head it seems to be the most efficient use of space. Going to have to get out there w some blue tape and see how everything will fit
Yeah the old bed went to crap fast under the bed liner. It was bad before but not like that.
Just picked up the truck today. Pretty happy with how it looks and the service was great.
Now I have to start laying it out so can get this thing built.
Right now I'm thinking the 100 gallon tanks from pws pushed up against the headache rack. In my head it seems to be the most efficient use of space. Going to have to get out there w some blue tape and see how everything will fit
Tanks are typically very expensive to ship? Maybe things have changed. Tractor Supply usually has a decent selection,..and I think you can also have them shipped to the store for free for local pick up?
I do like USPlastics tank options and various dimensions.
Jeff
DirtyRoofcom said
Dec 28, 2019
I have that catalog but I really need to stay away from round tanks. Square or rectangle is much better use of space and looks better. I have the old leg tanks, they would work but just seem to take up too much space.
It looks like those pws tanks are going to be to tall w fittings. (I should of had the ladder rack made a few inches taller) Theres a few other tanks I've seen I have to look into.
The shipping prices are ridiculous on tanks but dont have too many options.
Art O said
Dec 28, 2019
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
Yeah the old bed went to crap fast under the bed liner. It was bad before but not like that.
Just picked up the truck today. Pretty happy with how it looks and the service was great.
Now I have to start laying it out so can get this thing built.
Right now I'm thinking the 100 gallon tanks from pws pushed up against the headache rack. In my head it seems to be the most efficient use of space. Going to have to get out there w some blue tape and see how everything will fit
Nice looking Rig Erik
DirtyRoofcom said
Dec 28, 2019
Did a quick layout for the equipment. Would love some feedback, advice or suggestions.
2 100 gal tanks pushed up against headache rack
(4) stackable hannay E1526-17-18 passenger side
Mixing valve- pass. side next to tank
PW - Driver side back corner
Compressor (if I go air) driv side.
I'm thinking batteries in box under bed.
Air or 12 volt pump should fit anywhere.
Trying to leave middle somewhat open for access from back of bed.
Most stuff is ordered just waiting on delivery. Soap tank came in
Erik on the bottom of that tank you will see 4 indented holes. Melt some clear Zip ties into the holes or if you have tank plastic use that. After a year mine started leaking. Do the preventive maintenance so it doesn't happen to you
BlueRidge said
Jan 4, 2020
Art O wrote:
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
Did a quick layout for the equipment. Would love some feedback, advice or suggestions.
2 100 gal tanks pushed up against headache rack
(4) stackable hannay E1526-17-18 passenger side
Mixing valve- pass. side next to tank
PW - Driver side back corner
Compressor (if I go air) driv side.
I'm thinking batteries in box under bed.
Air or 12 volt pump should fit anywhere.
Trying to leave middle somewhat open for access from back of bed.
Sounds like a lot of weight, you may want to look into air bags
I was paying more attention to your build but after Art posted this... I can't tell if your truck is dual wheels. If not you might want to think about a dual wheel add on and as Art mentioned, air bags. I'm concerned about all the weight. If it's single wheels make sure you have wide 10 ply tires. Kind of what the semi's are doing now.
I'm sure you have considered all of this but I wanted to add on for others who might see your post.
Doug Rucker said
Jan 4, 2020
Art O wrote:
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
Most stuff is ordered just waiting on delivery. Soap tank came in
Erik on the bottom of that tank you will see 4 indented holes. Melt some clear Zip ties into the holes or if you have tank plastic use that. After a year mine started leaking. Do the preventive maintenance so it doesn't happen to you
Hmmm..every one of mine have leaked after a few months....figured it was just the bleach
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 6, 2020
This soap tank has threaded inserts in the bottom. Probably the cause for the leaking. Lil annoyed to hear this def won't bolt it down.
As far as the truck suspension goes I've actually been dropping weight. the old steel bed and steel ladder rack was much heavier than the aluminum replacement. I dont know the numbers but the truck is so light in the back that it drives like crap on our terrible roads.
I've also gone from 2 135 gallon tanks to 2 100 gallon tanks.
Im guessing it will be more weight but dont think it will be too significant. If it does I can address it with air bags or add a leaf spring to it.
Currently frustrated trying to get this order placed and not get killed on shipping charges and over inflated prices. Seems I CANT get everything from one place. Some vendors only stock certain items, some items are out of stock resulting in addl freight charges.
I still wouldnt ustify the amount of money to have a skid built but I can definitely see the value in convenience..
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 6, 2020
It will be interesting to see if this tank leaks also. The inserts on the bottom appear to be aluminum. And form inside the tank it also appears to be sealed well w a good amount of tank material around insert.
Did you guys use these threaded inserts? Perhaps from driving around w bolts attached it caused the leaking?
It will be interesting to see if this tank leaks also. The inserts on the bottom appear to be aluminum. And form inside the tank it also appears to be sealed well w a good amount of tank material around insert.
Did you guys use these threaded inserts? Perhaps from driving around w bolts attached it caused the leaking?
My tank didn't have them bolt holes. Its a sealed tank I bought steal strap hooks from HD and put a strap around the tank to hold it in place.
Admin said
Jan 6, 2020
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
This soap tank has threaded inserts in the bottom. Probably the cause for the leaking. Lil annoyed to hear this def won't bolt it down.
As far as the truck suspension goes I've actually been dropping weight. the old steel bed and steel ladder rack was much heavier than the aluminum replacement. I dont know the numbers but the truck is so light in the back that it drives like crap on our terrible roads.
I've also gone from 2 135 gallon tanks to 2 100 gallon tanks.
Im guessing it will be more weight but dont think it will be too significant. If it does I can address it with air bags or add a leaf spring to it.
Currently frustrated trying to get this order placed and not get killed on shipping charges and over inflated prices. Seems I CANT get everything from one place. Some vendors only stock certain items, some items are out of stock resulting in addl freight charges.
I still wouldnt ustify the amount of money to have a skid built but I can definitely see the value in convenience..
Erik always try Ebay and Amazon Prime first. Lots of good deals with Free Shipping
BlueRidge said
Jan 6, 2020
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
It will be interesting to see if this tank leaks also. The inserts on the bottom appear to be aluminum. And form inside the tank it also appears to be sealed well w a good amount of tank material around insert.
Did you guys use these threaded inserts? Perhaps from driving around w bolts attached it caused the leaking?
I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Is the tank for SH? If so, SH eats everything! If it gets to the aluminum, it will eat it fast.
I have had really good luck with mobile home straps. I cut to fit and bend the ends, then drill a hole for SS screws. I also paint the straps with galvanized paint which makes a big difference.
I have two square 5 gal. soap tanks that was difficult to get the straps bent the way I wanted. Some old truck inner tubes cut the same width of the straps made for a real nice fit between the tanks and straps. I cut the straps a bit short so when the bolts are tightened, they are snug.
Doug Rucker said
Jan 7, 2020
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
It will be interesting to see if this tank leaks also. The inserts on the bottom appear to be aluminum. And form inside the tank it also appears to be sealed well w a good amount of tank material around insert.
Did you guys use these threaded inserts? Perhaps from driving around w bolts attached it caused the leaking?
Yes.,,,thats what I have had 3 of....and all leaked inside of a year....bolts and driving could be it, I just always assumed it was the bleach
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 7, 2020
Brett that's a 7 gallon tank I will be using for soap. I will NOT be using the threads on the bottom in case I need to shuffle some stuff around.
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 9, 2020
Got the truck back, had a sensor replaced in the transmission. Had them do a once over so hopefully no issues through the working season.🤞
Tanks came in from PWS. Fit better then expected. Lil tip- Go by the manufacturer or suppliers measurements not measurements from others in the field. apparently some people have tape measures that are diff then the rest of us.
I was able to plumb the chem tank, water tank and soap tank to the mixing valve. I also got the float valve installed. I only have to cut in bulkhead for the pressure washer supply line and then I'm done with tanks.
I have room to add a 2nd soap tank to the other if I decide to carry 2 diff soaps. Should be able to use 1 feed line if I add ball valves 2 each tank. Similar to what brett has in that video.
I'm playing with ways to support the mixing valve. And I'll be honest....I might very well silicone that piece of diamond plate to the side of the tank. Trying to minimize amount of holes and welding that will need to be done.
Things like the tie down strap holding the tanks and the small length of hose coming off the float valve are not staying. They are just there as I'm building. I will have some welding fabrication to do at the end, just want to get everything situated first.
As you see in the pic I thought about having the tanks run down the middle of the truck. I actually really liked this idea and was having a hard time deciding which way to go. I had to make a decision and thought up against the headache rack would be best.
Still trying to order the hose reels. Now I'm finding out that one of the hose reels I need is out of stock at most places and it would have to shop freight when it comes in which would make that a $1050 hose reel when you include the shipping.
"I might very well silicone that piece of diamond plate to the side of the tank."
First of all, silicone is junk! I just hate the stuff for most applications! You will never get silicone to stick on plastic. See the picture attached. I have no clue what you will put where the red arrow is but if you have room, have the aluminum diamond plate bent 90 degrees and mount it on the wall with SS bolts where the yellow arrow is. Secure is the best way to go.
I have found mobile home strapping to work well and can be pulled down pretty tight, bolted with SS screws. Paint it with galvanized paint first. PWS has SS straps if you want to go that way. I'm not real crazy about ratchet straps. If that's the way you have to go then keep the ratchet lubed all season and check them often.
Heres the deal with silicone (I know its hack but) it generally holds very well and if I change my mind or it comes off there is no permanent damage or holes drilled. 20 years of construction learned w a little surface prep it will stick to almost anything.
I did not think about putting it were the yellow arrow is. I really like that idea and am going to put some thought into it. Ot would be secure, protected and easy to access.
Jeff Wible said
Jan 11, 2020
I make straps out of 3/4" wide aluminum strips. Depending on how long you need them and what you have available could be an issue. I make the "eye bolts" myself because I want two nuts and bolts on each end. I suppose you could just use regular store bought eye bolts. The ones I make are basically a piece of 3 inch all thread welded to a flat piece witch is attached to each end of the aluminum strap. Then the threaded part goes down through mounting holes,..and simply craw under and tighten down,..and doesn't have to be super tight,..just snug it down.
Another thing,..I use stall matting from TSC under my SH tank,...seams like it may take some stress off the tank from being tightened down to a metal trailer deck or truck bed.
Jeff
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 15, 2020
Lil update parts and equipment starting to arrive.
Still need 1 hose reel that's back ordered. It will.get stacked on the other reel closest to the tank.
Was going to mount the all flo and pressure washer but it's to heavy to get the pw out of the basement solo.
Looking nice and clean! Couple things,..regarding the PW setup. It may be too late to influence your reel choice for the high pressure hose. Unless it's the reel you're waiting on? But, an electric hose reel makes a tremendous difference,...HP hose is heavy and a bear to manually wind. Especially at 200',... And depending on your GPM and intended use,..a buffer tank can be vital. Again,..maybe you've thought of that already,..just pointing it out.
Consider anything I,. or anyone says as constructive criticism,..
Jeff
DirtyRoofcom said
Jan 16, 2020
Jeff, all 3 are electric rewind. I'm waiting on the hose reel for garden hose/water supply it has a 1" pipe
Should be able to see it in the pics but there is 2 100gal tanks. 1 is for SH - 1 is for buffer.
This morning I'm playing w placement of PW and compressor. I have more room then I thought but want to get this situated best i can.
(It wont let me use " man I fold " kept changing to proportioner🤔🤔) -- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:26:25 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:27:01 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:30:37 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:32:11 AM
Flatbed goes on this week.
It was definitely time
I would go over your frame carefully and even check out the entire rear end. Some repairs and reinforcement might be in order.
Yeah Brett im expecting some extra work will be needed. From what I can see it appears to be mostly surface rust on the frame but i will be looking at brake lines/fittings and everything else. Thanks
Break lines... damn good idea! I hope it's not too bad once you get the bed off.
Yeah the old bed went to crap fast under the bed liner. It was bad before but not like that.
Just picked up the truck today. Pretty happy with how it looks and the service was great.
Now I have to start laying it out so can get this thing built.
Right now I'm thinking the 100 gallon tanks from pws pushed up against the headache rack. In my head it seems to be the most efficient use of space. Going to have to get out there w some blue tape and see how everything will fit
I recently got a tank catalog from US Plastics.
I do like USPlastics tank options and various dimensions.
Jeff
It looks like those pws tanks are going to be to tall w fittings. (I should of had the ladder rack made a few inches taller) Theres a few other tanks I've seen I have to look into.
The shipping prices are ridiculous on tanks but dont have too many options.
Nice looking Rig Erik
Did a quick layout for the equipment. Would love some feedback, advice or suggestions.
2 100 gal tanks pushed up against headache rack
(4) stackable hannay E1526-17-18 passenger side
Mixing valve- pass. side next to tank
PW - Driver side back corner
Compressor (if I go air) driv side.
I'm thinking batteries in box under bed.
Air or 12 volt pump should fit anywhere.
Trying to leave middle somewhat open for access from back of bed.
Sounds like a lot of weight, you may want to look into air bags
Most stuff is ordered just waiting on delivery.
Soap tank came in
Erik on the bottom of that tank you will see 4 indented holes. Melt some clear Zip ties into the holes or if you have tank plastic use that. After a year mine started leaking. Do the preventive maintenance so it doesn't happen to you
I was paying more attention to your build but after Art posted this... I can't tell if your truck is dual wheels. If not you might want to think about a dual wheel add on and as Art mentioned, air bags. I'm concerned about all the weight. If it's single wheels make sure you have wide 10 ply tires. Kind of what the semi's are doing now.
I'm sure you have considered all of this but I wanted to add on for others who might see your post.
Hmmm..every one of mine have leaked after a few months....figured it was just the bleach
This soap tank has threaded inserts in the bottom. Probably the cause for the leaking. Lil annoyed to hear this def won't bolt it down.
As far as the truck suspension goes I've actually been dropping weight. the old steel bed and steel ladder rack was much heavier than the aluminum replacement. I dont know the numbers but the truck is so light in the back that it drives like crap on our terrible roads.
I've also gone from 2 135 gallon tanks to 2 100 gallon tanks.
Im guessing it will be more weight but dont think it will be too significant. If it does I can address it with air bags or add a leaf spring to it.
Currently frustrated trying to get this order placed and not get killed on shipping charges and over inflated prices. Seems I CANT get everything from one place. Some vendors only stock certain items, some items are out of stock resulting in addl freight charges.
I still wouldnt ustify the amount of money to have a skid built but I can definitely see the value in convenience..
It will be interesting to see if this tank leaks also. The inserts on the bottom appear to be aluminum. And form inside the tank it also appears to be sealed well w a good amount of tank material around insert.
Did you guys use these threaded inserts? Perhaps from driving around w bolts attached it caused the leaking?
My tank didn't have them bolt holes. Its a sealed tank I bought steal strap hooks from HD and put a strap around the tank to hold it in place.
Erik always try Ebay and Amazon Prime first. Lots of good deals with Free Shipping
I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Is the tank for SH? If so, SH eats everything! If it gets to the aluminum, it will eat it fast.
I have had really good luck with mobile home straps. I cut to fit and bend the ends, then drill a hole for SS screws. I also paint the straps with galvanized paint which makes a big difference.
I have two square 5 gal. soap tanks that was difficult to get the straps bent the way I wanted. Some old truck inner tubes cut the same width of the straps made for a real nice fit between the tanks and straps. I cut the straps a bit short so when the bolts are tightened, they are snug.
Yes.,,,thats what I have had 3 of....and all leaked inside of a year....bolts and driving could be it, I just always assumed it was the bleach
Got the truck back, had a sensor replaced in the transmission. Had them do a once over so hopefully no issues through the working season.🤞
Tanks came in from PWS. Fit better then expected. Lil tip- Go by the manufacturer or suppliers measurements not measurements from others in the field. apparently some people have tape measures that are diff then the rest of us.
I was able to plumb the chem tank, water tank and soap tank to the mixing valve. I also got the float valve installed. I only have to cut in bulkhead for the pressure washer supply line and then I'm done with tanks.
I have room to add a 2nd soap tank to the other if I decide to carry 2 diff soaps. Should be able to use 1 feed line if I add ball valves 2 each tank. Similar to what brett has in that video.
I'm playing with ways to support the mixing valve. And I'll be honest....I might very well silicone that piece of diamond plate to the side of the tank. Trying to minimize amount of holes and welding that will need to be done.
Things like the tie down strap holding the tanks and the small length of hose coming off the float valve are not staying. They are just there as I'm building. I will have some welding fabrication to do at the end, just want to get everything situated first.
As you see in the pic I thought about having the tanks run down the middle of the truck. I actually really liked this idea and was having a hard time deciding which way to go. I had to make a decision and thought up against the headache rack would be best.
Still trying to order the hose reels. Now I'm finding out that one of the hose reels I need is out of stock at most places and it would have to shop freight when it comes in which would make that a $1050 hose reel when you include the shipping.
"I might very well silicone that piece of diamond plate to the side of the tank."
First of all, silicone is junk! I just hate the stuff for most applications! You will never get silicone to stick on plastic. See the picture attached. I have no clue what you will put where the red arrow is but if you have room, have the aluminum diamond plate bent 90 degrees and mount it on the wall with SS bolts where the yellow arrow is. Secure is the best way to go.
I have found mobile home strapping to work well and can be pulled down pretty tight, bolted with SS screws. Paint it with galvanized paint first. PWS has SS straps if you want to go that way. I'm not real crazy about ratchet straps. If that's the way you have to go then keep the ratchet lubed all season and check them often.
Ratchet strap is TEMPORARY.
Heres the deal with silicone (I know its hack but) it generally holds very well and if I change my mind or it comes off there is no permanent damage or holes drilled. 20 years of construction learned w a little surface prep it will stick to almost anything.
I did not think about putting it were the yellow arrow is. I really like that idea and am going to put some thought into it. Ot would be secure, protected and easy to access.
Another thing,..I use stall matting from TSC under my SH tank,...seams like it may take some stress off the tank from being tightened down to a metal trailer deck or truck bed.
Jeff
Lil update parts and equipment starting to arrive.
Still need 1 hose reel that's back ordered. It will.get stacked on the other reel closest to the tank.
Was going to mount the all flo and pressure washer but it's to heavy to get the pw out of the basement solo.
Here is where we are at so far
Consider anything I,. or anyone says as constructive criticism,..
Jeff
Jeff, all 3 are electric rewind. I'm waiting on the hose reel for garden hose/water supply it has a 1" pipe
Should be able to see it in the pics but there is 2 100gal tanks. 1 is for SH - 1 is for buffer.
This morning I'm playing w placement of PW and compressor. I have more room then I thought but want to get this situated best i can.
(It wont let me use " man I fold " kept changing to proportioner🤔🤔)
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:26:25 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:27:01 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:30:37 AM
-- Edited by DirtyRoofcom on Thursday 16th of January 2020 08:32:11 AM