Looks cool so you can hook straight to a drum of sh and your soap and say roof snot and blend all together for the freshest mix? The knobs on the inside are they dials to regulate the amount of Chems?
Aselton said
Sep 16, 2015
3 inlets go to water, sh and soap. Outlet goes to pump, off you go!
Fred W said
Sep 16, 2015
Tim, is there a mixing chamber or anything that causes mixing?
Aselton said
Sep 16, 2015
The lower manifold is very specifically milled, that's really all I should say. This unit is not just a box and a few valves. Years of testing has led to this point, I washed all day today with this system. I have 2 tomorrow... Paul can help anyone with questions At www.powerwashstore.com . There are a few more unique systems to be developed in the near future. This is a very exciting time for the industry.
Andrew said
Sep 17, 2015
Does this system work with a 12v pump.
As i see your using an air diagram pump.
Thanks
Andrew
Fred W said
Sep 17, 2015
Aselton wrote:
The lower manifold is very specifically milled, that's really all I should say. This unit is not just a box and a few valves. Years of testing has led to this point, I washed all day today with this system. I have 2 tomorrow... Paul can help anyone with questions At www.powerwashstore.com . There are a few more unique systems to be developed in the near future. This is a very exciting time for the industry.
So this?
The ProPortioner is a metering system which utilizes three highly engineered chemical resistant metering valves fed into a milled mixing chamber to ensure proper mixing prior to entering the spray hose. Each metering valve has a dial indicator which allows the user to set the valve in the correct position for the desired mix ratio of each ingredient.
The ProPortioner eliminates the need for batch mixing and allows the user to switch between a roof mix and house mix by simply adjusting the metering valves.
The Banjo fittings at the top are for water, SH and soap.......why not just have a water hose connector for the water valve?
Aselton said
Sep 17, 2015
The water and SH need to enter the system equally. The air pump was used to demo the unit just to show it can be used with multiple pumps. I use a 12v and a 110v booster pump on my truck. We are working on a way to use the proportioner with the Udor and Comet pump. The issue with those diaphragm pumps with unloaders is that they have to bypass back to a tank. There is no tank (mix tank) in this sytstem to bypass to.
-- Edited by Aselton on Thursday 17th of September 2015 09:57:17 AM
Brandon Vaughn said
Sep 17, 2015
It is a very cool system Tim! I saw it in person at the tradeshow - gotta love innovations like this.
Fred W said
Sep 18, 2015
Aselton wrote:
The water and SH need to enter the system equally.
So no water hose connection because there needs to be a water tank the system draws from?
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Sep 18, 2015
Yes. Garden hose feed would push water in creating and unbalanced mix ratio. At least that's what I'm gathering. I would imagine you would just need 2 tanks ( 1 sh and 1 water) and a 5 gallon bucket for soap.
I like this idea and I think it's a huge time saver.
BlueRidge said
Sep 18, 2015
How do we know what our mix ratios are are? We all use different pumps, hose size and nozzles. Do we need to tweak it ourselves?
SprayWash said
Sep 18, 2015
Brett, yes there's a little individual tweaking going on. When the labels are installed you'll see 10% 20% 30% etc. depending on the length of run of hose , diameter of hose, level of chemical, all of these factors will slightly change the mix ratio. After using it one or two times you'll find your perfect butter zone for your system.
You'll be able to run a rig with two tanks either 50s , hundreds or larger, if desired. I look at it as a massive timesaver. When doing three houses per crew a day, with two crews, I figure I'm losing about 2 to 3 hours per day just waiting for a mixed to be made. From where I stand this is a no brain For my business model.
I've also used Tim's Systemwhen we have washed houses together. I can honestly tell you without reservation that it works. When you're washing the house and you want a 10% mix, you set the dial on 10%, when it's time to boost up to a 30% roof mix you put the dial on 30%. It's just that easy!
Fred W said
Sep 18, 2015
I need two per truck and I SOOOOO want to jump and get 4 of them. My problem is the info just being so slow in coming. More info getting added weekly like now finding out we need a water tank. Someone said you wont need a mix tank so you have more space on the truck but you do need to add a water tank so no space saved.
I don't care about the space and I'm with you Ray....I spent way too much time last night watching the tank fill. I've lost at least 5 years from my life just watching mix tanks fill!
My point is; there's more here and I think we just want to know what we're looking at. I have had concerns that once we buy the unit we now need to figure out our own ratios. This was from Paul. I was concerned that in trying to figure out the ratio's I would be killing plants. Sure, once I dial it in its great but if I kill a bunch of plants in the interim.......
I understood why no info was being given before the show but now that the show is over lets just give up the ghost and tell us what all is needed or required and how the system works. I imagine there is concern that we will just build our own units if the design is simple enough but the reality is we live in an internet driven world. This thing will be all over the internet soon enough so if someone wants to build their own they will.
Because the info wasn't there I did start doing research. I can buy the valves at $100 each. A mixing chamber for $100 and have a custom box built for about another $100. So the total is about $500 plus my time. I would much rather spend $1000 and just buy it and know what I have.
Art O said
Sep 18, 2015
Doug Relax, Paul just got the unit last week. I'm sure it has to be tested by a few guys and gone over. Also Tim is new here, lets take it easy on him!
gutterdog said
Sep 18, 2015
I could use something like this! I'm still doing it the same way we did 5-6 years ago, just higher GPM, electric starts and reels, aluminum, dual pumps bigger trailer . I'm deff interested.
I'm 5 galloning on the side, still.... That takes alot of time, and hard on the ground man.
Aselton said
Sep 18, 2015
Hey guys, paul and I are finalizing everything to go on his website. For the system to operate you will need a water tank, bleach tank and a soap source... Pulling out of 1gal jugs or 5's will work.I use 2 16gal mounted tanks for soap. Water and bleach tanks will be plumbed from the top with equal length 1/2" lines. The soap supply can use 1/2", 3/8" or even 1/4" as it is just a drip in the system. All pickups must be filtered to control debris intake. The system will vary slightly from user to user, but it is not a issue. The dial that is on valves goes by degrees 0-180.
The following degrees indicate percentages for SH valve are as follows:
50 = 10% 80 = 20% 110 = 30% 140 = 40% 180 = 50%
The soap valve will start to flow soap at the following degrees.
35-40
The soaps viscosity effects the draw so open to 35-40 and adjust as desired.
The water valve will stay wide open at 180 degrees. The only time you want to adjust the water is when you want to go above 50%. We seldom go over 50%, but if you need to, use SH settings in reverse.
140 = 60% 110 = 70%.....
I hope this helps everyone understand the system a little better. These percentages are based on 10.5% SH. Across the country SH percentages and quality vary so it is very tough to make exact mixes from area to area, but this system is incredibly repeatable. Find your perfect spots and mark it for your system.
This complete system is not cheap to manufacture as it contains only the highest quality components. This will however reduce your set up times tremendously from surface to surface.
-- Edited by Aselton on Friday 18th of September 2015 09:18:36 PM
Fred W said
Sep 18, 2015
Art O wrote:
Doug Relax, Paul just got the unit last week. I'm sure it has to be tested by a few guys and gone over. Also Tim is new here, lets take it easy on him!
Art, Relax, I wasn't being hard on Tim....Just saying we need the info to jump. I planned on buying two units regardless because Ray endorsed it. I figured I could make it work even if they didn't give up the info.
Aselton wrote:
I hope this helps everyone understand the system a little better. These percentages are based on 10.5% SH. Across the country SH percentages and quality vary so it is very tough to make exact mixes from area to area, but this system is incredibly repeatable. Find your perfect spots and mark it for your system.
Tim, Thanks for all the info and I hope you understand that I wasn't trying to be difficult. I even talked with someone else who had the same thoughts and concerns I have. We just need info before we pop a few grand.
For me it's pretty much a no brainer. If I can turn a few knobs and have what we need then yea, I'm in.
Do you have the ratio's based on 12.5%?.....it's all I buy.
Aselton said
Sep 18, 2015
No problem Doug, I completely understand.
Aselton said
Sep 18, 2015
And, no sorry I haven't calibrated it for 12.5 as we don't get much around her. It can easily be adjusted I'm sure using 10.5 marks.
Brandon Vaughn said
Sep 19, 2015
Tim, you could make the dial indicators for the mixing valves a separate, removable circular sticker. That way, you could rotate them according to a 12.5% or a 10.5 etc. type mix.
Aselton said
Sep 19, 2015
Brandon, that is a great idea. It was nice meeting you at the convention as well. Paul is working hard on these up in Milwaukee. We will see about getting those types of stickers for the proportioner. Our plans were more towards giving the standard markings and having the individual mark his or her sweet spots with 1% (10%), 2% (20%)... Stickers because there will be a slight variance from system to system. I spoke with a bunch of great guys at the convention and when I asked them about their SH I got many different responses. This is probably the biggest reason why we want to give the standard markings and have them customize it for their particular set up. The settings I supplied will work for most systems right off the bat. If you are like me, you can tell pretty quick after applying if it's gonna have the punch it needs to get the job done. There are no real standard cookie cutter percentages for every job due to severity and maturity of growth on a particular surface, but we always start our houses on 10% solutions. Some need a little more or a little less, that's where the proportioner is nice. Simply open soap up for 5 seconds while spraying and make adjustment to SH as desired, then return soap to normal position. Soon you will have a burst of soap come through the nozzle and you know you are on your new mix. This is also how you change of course from roof to house to deck.... all on the fly with a soap marker indicating your switching. We do a little trick called "running a bump"... This is where we are washing a structure and we have some terrible gutters or anything the house mix isn't going to touch. I send one of my guys to the truck to adjust SH and soap for however many seconds we need. Wait for 1st soap indicator, spray severe areas with stronger mix, 2nd soap indicator comes through and you are back to house mix.
-- Edited by Aselton on Saturday 19th of September 2015 11:12:41 AM
Dave said
Sep 20, 2015
Is there going to be a warranty on this unit, and parts available if something breaks. Or will you need to purchase a whole new unit if one of the valves break?
Aselton said
Sep 20, 2015
Paul will be listing all of the warranty info on the site soon. The systems are built for the long haul. There will never be a need to buy another unit because of a valve malfunction. Everything is rebuildable/replaceable if necessary. The water and soap valves will live forever, the SH valve will need a annual rebuild which Paul will do labor free the first year. Flushing the SH valve is recommended after every use. I recommend a 3 way valve on the SH intake with one side going to SH and the other to water. Simply turn 3 way to water after using and flush system, pump, etc... Paul offers the banjo 1/2" 3 way that works great. You can just take banjo cam lock connecter loose from water and switch with SH for flush, but 3 way is much more convenient.
Maverick Contracting said
Sep 21, 2015
I think for those of us that may get different SH concentration rates from time to time such as 10% 12.5% 15% can make markings on their valves with color coding so final mix concentration rates are easier to dial in.
Aselton said
Sep 21, 2015
Paul has it up on his site now, powerwashstore.com . Photos and videos will be up soon when indicators and logos come in.
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Sep 21, 2015
Tim I see the system uses 1/2 hose. Can it be calibrated to use 3/4 hose. Our skid is all 3/4.
Maverick Contracting said
Sep 21, 2015
Diamond roof Cleaning wrote:
Tim I see the system uses 1/2 hose. Can it be calibrated to use 3/4 hose. Our skid is all 3/4.
same here, great point.
I think we all just would need to dial in our own systems.
Fatboy and modified penatflex's for easy relay/pressure swtich out changes for high roof cleanings, but want to add a low flow system for things like awning cleaning in future. so Id want to make t fully flexable per system but i think this could be a great system no matter what your needs are including sodium precarb. etc. hook up, maybe more than a 3 way valve system?
Pipe dreams that I can wait for!
Aselton said
Sep 21, 2015
Guys, the system is designed for 1/2" intakes. There may be a volume/priming issue drawing 2 3/4" lines into the system that can put a unnecessary strain on some pumps. . I recommend 1/2" lines in, the output threads are 3/4" to the pump. 1/2" can be used to the pump if your pump intake is 1/2", just use a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer bushing or applicable fittings. Remember we are working off suction so all fittings, hoses, etc.. need to be air tight.
3 inlets go to water, sh and soap. Outlet goes to pump, off you go!
The lower manifold is very specifically milled, that's really all I should say. This unit is not just a box and a few valves. Years of testing has led to this point, I washed all day today with this system. I have 2 tomorrow... Paul can help anyone with questions At www.powerwashstore.com . There are a few more unique systems to be developed in the near future. This is a very exciting time for the industry.
So this?
The ProPortioner is a metering system which utilizes three highly engineered chemical resistant metering valves fed into a milled mixing chamber to ensure proper mixing prior to entering the spray hose. Each metering valve has a dial indicator which allows the user to set the valve in the correct position for the desired mix ratio of each ingredient.
The ProPortioner eliminates the need for batch mixing and allows the user to switch between a roof mix and house mix by simply adjusting the metering valves.
The Banjo fittings at the top are for water, SH and soap.......why not just have a water hose connector for the water valve?
The water and SH need to enter the system equally. The air pump was used to demo the unit just to show it can be used with multiple pumps. I use a 12v and a 110v booster pump on my truck. We are working on a way to use the proportioner with the Udor and Comet pump. The issue with those diaphragm pumps with unloaders is that they have to bypass back to a tank. There is no tank (mix tank) in this sytstem to bypass to.
-- Edited by Aselton on Thursday 17th of September 2015 09:57:17 AM
It is a very cool system Tim! I saw it in person at the tradeshow - gotta love innovations like this.
So no water hose connection because there needs to be a water tank the system draws from?
I like this idea and I think it's a huge time saver.
How do we know what our mix ratios are are? We all use different pumps, hose size and nozzles. Do we need to tweak it ourselves?
You'll be able to run a rig with two tanks either 50s , hundreds or larger, if desired. I look at it as a massive timesaver. When doing three houses per crew a day, with two crews, I figure I'm losing about 2 to 3 hours per day just waiting for a mixed to be made. From where I stand this is a no brain For my business model.
I've also used Tim's Systemwhen we have washed houses together. I can honestly tell you without reservation that it works. When you're washing the house and you want a 10% mix, you set the dial on 10%, when it's time to boost up to a 30% roof mix you put the dial on 30%. It's just that easy!
I don't care about the space and I'm with you Ray....I spent way too much time last night watching the tank fill. I've lost at least 5 years from my life just watching mix tanks fill!
My point is; there's more here and I think we just want to know what we're looking at. I have had concerns that once we buy the unit we now need to figure out our own ratios. This was from Paul. I was concerned that in trying to figure out the ratio's I would be killing plants. Sure, once I dial it in its great but if I kill a bunch of plants in the interim.......
I understood why no info was being given before the show but now that the show is over lets just give up the ghost and tell us what all is needed or required and how the system works. I imagine there is concern that we will just build our own units if the design is simple enough but the reality is we live in an internet driven world. This thing will be all over the internet soon enough so if someone wants to build their own they will.
Because the info wasn't there I did start doing research. I can buy the valves at $100 each. A mixing chamber for $100 and have a custom box built for about another $100. So the total is about $500 plus my time. I would much rather spend $1000 and just buy it and know what I have.
I could use something like this! I'm still doing it the same way we did 5-6 years ago, just higher GPM, electric starts and reels, aluminum, dual pumps bigger trailer . I'm deff interested.
I'm 5 galloning on the side, still.... That takes alot of time, and hard on the ground man.
Hey guys, paul and I are finalizing everything to go on his website. For the system to operate you will need a water tank, bleach tank and a soap source... Pulling out of 1gal jugs or 5's will work.I use 2 16gal mounted tanks for soap. Water and bleach tanks will be plumbed from the top with equal length 1/2" lines. The soap supply can use 1/2", 3/8" or even 1/4" as it is just a drip in the system. All pickups must be filtered to control debris intake. The system will vary slightly from user to user, but it is not a issue. The dial that is on valves goes by degrees 0-180.
The following degrees indicate percentages for SH valve are as follows:
50 = 10%
80 = 20%
110 = 30%
140 = 40%
180 = 50%
The soap valve will start to flow soap at the following degrees.
35-40
The soaps viscosity effects the draw so open to 35-40 and adjust as desired.
The water valve will stay wide open at 180 degrees. The only time you want to adjust the water is when you want to go above 50%. We seldom go over 50%, but if you need to, use SH settings in reverse.
140 = 60%
110 = 70%.....
I hope this helps everyone understand the system a little better. These percentages are based on 10.5% SH. Across the country SH percentages and quality vary so it is very tough to make exact mixes from area to area, but this system is incredibly repeatable. Find your perfect spots and mark it for your system.
This complete system is not cheap to manufacture as it contains only the highest quality components. This will however reduce your set up times tremendously from surface to surface.
-- Edited by Aselton on Friday 18th of September 2015 09:18:36 PM
I hope this helps everyone understand the system a little better. These percentages are based on 10.5% SH. Across the country SH percentages and quality vary so it is very tough to make exact mixes from area to area, but this system is incredibly repeatable. Find your perfect spots and mark it for your system.
Tim, Thanks for all the info and I hope you understand that I wasn't trying to be difficult. I even talked with someone else who had the same thoughts and concerns I have. We just need info before we pop a few grand.
For me it's pretty much a no brainer. If I can turn a few knobs and have what we need then yea, I'm in.
Do you have the ratio's based on 12.5%?.....it's all I buy.
Tim, you could make the dial indicators for the mixing valves a separate, removable circular sticker. That way, you could rotate them according to a 12.5% or a 10.5 etc. type mix.
Brandon, that is a great idea. It was nice meeting you at the convention as well. Paul is working hard on these up in Milwaukee. We will see about getting those types of stickers for the proportioner. Our plans were more towards giving the standard markings and having the individual mark his or her sweet spots with 1% (10%), 2% (20%)... Stickers because there will be a slight variance from system to system. I spoke with a bunch of great guys at the convention and when I asked them about their SH I got many different responses. This is probably the biggest reason why we want to give the standard markings and have them customize it for their particular set up. The settings I supplied will work for most systems right off the bat. If you are like me, you can tell pretty quick after applying if it's gonna have the punch it needs to get the job done. There are no real standard cookie cutter percentages for every job due to severity and maturity of growth on a particular surface, but we always start our houses on 10% solutions. Some need a little more or a little less, that's where the proportioner is nice. Simply open soap up for 5 seconds while spraying and make adjustment to SH as desired, then return soap to normal position. Soon you will have a burst of soap come through the nozzle and you know you are on your new mix. This is also how you change of course from roof to house to deck.... all on the fly with a soap marker indicating your switching. We do a little trick called "running a bump"... This is where we are washing a structure and we have some terrible gutters or anything the house mix isn't going to touch. I send one of my guys to the truck to adjust SH and soap for however many seconds we need. Wait for 1st soap indicator, spray severe areas with stronger mix, 2nd soap indicator comes through and you are back to house mix.
-- Edited by Aselton on Saturday 19th of September 2015 11:12:41 AM
same here, great point.
I think we all just would need to dial in our own systems.
Fatboy and modified penatflex's for easy relay/pressure swtich out changes for high roof cleanings, but want to add a low flow system for things like awning cleaning in future. so Id want to make t fully flexable per system but i think this could be a great system no matter what your needs are including sodium precarb. etc. hook up, maybe more than a 3 way valve system?
Pipe dreams that I can wait for!