Here's a tip for guys that don't know how to get rid of the dreaded "over lap" streaks on long stretches of concrete.
We spray a light coat of our house wash mix after we are done. It blends it all in and brightens the concrete also. Besides that, it kills any residule algea and the cleaning will last longer! Water down the grass on the edges after you apply it if you don't want to replace sod on the edges of a driveway or pool patio!
-- Edited by Ray Wilkinson on Saturday 21st of September 2013 10:27:03 PM
After we clean with the sureface cleaner we rinse with a ball valve then coat the sureface with a light S/H mix. Seems to clean up nice. The ball valve waters the edge nice. Never have dead grass
Andy Hinson said
Sep 22, 2013
Same here except the mix is boosted before spraying
Doug Rucker said
Sep 22, 2013
Yep...have always done that too...also great for those tree tannin stains
gutterdog said
Sep 24, 2013
We 12 volt or us a pump up and spray either house wash or roof cleaning soap on the concrete first.
Capital Roof Wash said
Sep 24, 2013
Mike, we use leftover house wash mix but roof mix will work also. But be extra carefull with the roof mix on the the grass bordering the concrete. Spray from the edge towards the center to avoid as much overspray as possible. Water down vegetation bordering the concrete edges just like you would during a house wash.
We spray it on after cleaning with the surface cleaner and with our regular Soft Wash setup (12 volt system), not a pump up. You will see white bubbles form on the surface but that is just the SH reacting with the limestone in the concrete and is normal.
Art O said
Oct 10, 2013
I did a sidewalk yesterday with Roof wash mix. I came out really good. I watered the edge realy good of the sidewalk realy good
Andy Hinson said
Oct 10, 2013
Many times the grass is discolored anyway from the blasting effect of pressure and grit. Usually so much saturation of water that mix wont hurt it
Bryan P said
Jun 24, 2016
Is this normal striping? or do I need to adjust my machine? I did spray it with house wash afterwards, but I don't remember if that was before or after the photo. Still looked stripey when we left. I've got 5.5 gpm/4000 psi/WW Classic 2 nozzle/factory 2502 nozzles.
Chris Mozick said
Jun 25, 2016
That's why you should try the circle method or crisscross method go up and down the driveway then side to side and will never have that overlap issue
Jeff Wible said
Jun 25, 2016
Bryan,.I'm not sure but you should be using bigger nozzles on a 5.5 GPM machine. 2503 would be more like what you need I think. And that is "Normal" striping,.as far as striping is concerned,..but it isn't normal as in a desired finish. Pre-treating is a big help in avoiding this,..Pre-treatment can be anything from house wash strength to roof strength,..that's an evaluation you make per job. The circle method and crisscross does work but slows you down and doesn't clean as well as a pre-treated will get you,.unless you go really slow.
I know some guys use 40 degree nozzles in their surface cleaners,..I think that spreads the impact out further and maybe helps eliminate this as well?
And checking the unloader on your machine every so often is a good idea,..they will sneak out of adjustment sometimes.
The bypass should be at just a trickle when you're at full pressure and flow.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Saturday 25th of June 2016 05:31:52 AM
Bryan P said
Jun 25, 2016
Thanks Jeff, I wondered about those nozzles. I had already ordered 25025 and 2503 to try. I'll try them on the job Monday
Bryan P said
Jun 25, 2016
Thanks again. swapped out to those 2503 nozzles and it seemed a lot more even and little or no stripes. It also "floated" a little more...which I assume is a good thing. Feels lighter and lots easier to move around.
Bryan P said
Jul 4, 2016
Brownieboy wrote:
Thats a lot of concrete. Most homes in my area are tightly compacted so we don't get those massive driveways. Looks great hope the customer will return and ask for more.
I'm almost embarrassed now that I see that photo knowing that my nozzles were undersized and causing the problem. I changed to the larger ones and now, while I have to clean just a little slower I'm cleaning evenly and leaving no stripes. I still cross back over my work the opposite direction and I'm getting great results. Jeff nailed the problem and I'm thankful for the help.
All Kleen Softwash Systems said
Jul 4, 2016
Bryan P wrote:
Brownieboy wrote:
Thats a lot of concrete. Most homes in my area are tightly compacted so we don't get those massive driveways. Looks great hope the customer will return and ask for more.
I'm almost embarrassed now that I see that photo knowing that my nozzles were undersized and causing the problem. I changed to the larger ones and now, while I have to clean just a little slower I'm cleaning evenly and leaving no stripes. I still cross back over my work the opposite direction and I'm getting great results. Jeff nailed the problem and I'm thankful for the help.
Bryan when we have that problem we just go in the opposite direction. By going in the opposite direction it breaks up the stripes. Then i lay down my house wash to get that brightness on it. Turns out pretty good like that.
Just my 2 cents
Michael Wedge said
Jul 18, 2016
Just wanted to add that regularly changing out your tips will help as well. it doesn't take too much wear for one to get out of wack with the other. Also if the stripes are there even after you post treat, you could rinse off the mix and apply a light oxalic coat.
DrivewayCleaner said
Dec 6, 2016
Stripes = weak mix, too much pressure, going too fast, not enough dwell time, no post treat.
Sometimes the stripes go away when the concrete dries. If the stripes are light tan, that is usually the phantom stripes as I call them. My theory is the pressure of the surface cleaner actually forces the water out of the top layer of concrete, on the sides of the SC, giving you the stripes. Sort of like the stripes you see with lawn cutting. The stripes are actually the leaf blades are pulled in a different direction.
Here's a tip for guys that don't know how to get rid of the dreaded "over lap" streaks on long stretches of concrete.
We spray a light coat of our house wash mix after we are done. It blends it all in and brightens the concrete also. Besides that, it kills any residule algea and the cleaning will last longer! Water down the grass on the edges after you apply it if you don't want to replace sod on the edges of a driveway or pool patio!
-- Edited by Ray Wilkinson on Saturday 21st of September 2013 10:27:03 PM
Mike, we use leftover house wash mix but roof mix will work also. But be extra carefull with the roof mix on the the grass bordering the concrete. Spray from the edge towards the center to avoid as much overspray as possible. Water down vegetation bordering the concrete edges just like you would during a house wash.
We spray it on after cleaning with the surface cleaner and with our regular Soft Wash setup (12 volt system), not a pump up. You will see white bubbles form on the surface but that is just the SH reacting with the limestone in the concrete and is normal.
Is this normal striping? or do I need to adjust my machine? I did spray it with house wash afterwards, but I don't remember if that was before or after the photo. Still looked stripey when we left. I've got 5.5 gpm/4000 psi/WW Classic 2 nozzle/factory 2502 nozzles.
Bryan,.I'm not sure but you should be using bigger nozzles on a 5.5 GPM machine. 2503 would be more like what you need I think. And that is "Normal" striping,.as far as striping is concerned,..but it isn't normal as in a desired finish. Pre-treating is a big help in avoiding this,..Pre-treatment can be anything from house wash strength to roof strength,..that's an evaluation you make per job. The circle method and crisscross does work but slows you down and doesn't clean as well as a pre-treated will get you,.unless you go really slow.
I know some guys use 40 degree nozzles in their surface cleaners,..I think that spreads the impact out further and maybe helps eliminate this as well?
And checking the unloader on your machine every so often is a good idea,..they will sneak out of adjustment sometimes.
The bypass should be at just a trickle when you're at full pressure and flow.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Saturday 25th of June 2016 05:31:52 AM
I'm almost embarrassed now that I see that photo knowing that my nozzles were undersized and causing the problem. I changed to the larger ones and now, while I have to clean just a little slower I'm cleaning evenly and leaving no stripes. I still cross back over my work the opposite direction and I'm getting great results. Jeff nailed the problem and I'm thankful for the help.
Bryan when we have that problem we just go in the opposite direction. By going in the opposite direction it breaks up the stripes. Then i lay down my house wash to get that brightness on it. Turns out pretty good like that.
Just my 2 cents
Just wanted to add that regularly changing out your tips will help as well. it doesn't take too much wear for one to get out of wack with the other. Also if the stripes are there even after you post treat, you could rinse off the mix and apply a light oxalic coat.
Sometimes the stripes go away when the concrete dries. If the stripes are light tan, that is usually the phantom stripes as I call them. My theory is the pressure of the surface cleaner actually forces the water out of the top layer of concrete, on the sides of the SC, giving you the stripes. Sort of like the stripes you see with lawn cutting. The stripes are actually the leaf blades are pulled in a different direction.