Not looking to start an issue,...but wondering if there has been anymore work done by AC on the original "Bleach Wash"? Not sure where the standing on this stuff was and even if anyone else has messed with it at all. I love the idea of it,..if I could get this to work as easily as liquid hypo it would be a MAJOR step forward for me and I'm sure others as well.
If I remember right, Doug used it and it worked for the cleaning, white haze left behind was the issue. I can't believe with all the brains around these boards we can't get it figured out to make it a viable alternative. Funny thing is,..if it weren't for liquid hypo,..we WOULD make it work,.Ha,Ha,...
Jeff
Zach Maynard said
Feb 12, 2014
Yes there has been a lot of time and effort into it, although it has been attacked from a different angle. I'm not about to tell you exactly what he did out of respect for him...
Maybe if you send him a message on this board or check it out on his board?
There are a bunch of guys using solely CH at this time, and there is another bunch of guys who are augmenting with it (a mixture of both CH and SH)
Jeff Wible said
Feb 12, 2014
Yea, Zach,..I don't blame you for not saying. I figure it will surface eventually on it's own if it actually has merit. I won't ask AC to reveal anything. I know it can be done,..I used it for about 4-5 years on roofs and house,..basically in place of SH. It does work.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 12th of February 2014 08:25:27 AM
Zach Maynard said
Feb 12, 2014
Its available to anyone, I would love to use it myself I am just used to using SH so I would have to switch gears so to speak.
I will shoot him a message about this thread so he can extrapolate and expound.
He is on the road so it may take a bit.
Jeff Wible said
Feb 12, 2014
Zach,..in my opinion you should be using it if it works. At least so if you ever need a back up plan it's there.
If AC has a product that works I wouldn't blame him if he doesn't want to disclose it. If it works with the same ease and effectiveness as liquid hypo it will expose itself on it's own.
Jeff
AC Lockyer said
Feb 12, 2014
Jeff,
We don't have a product we sell that is the CH. CH is used in the pool and paper mill industries and they don't need it to be clean of silt. Until we start using it in enough volume to bring it in pure and add different additives and fillers to it we just have to go with the same old 68% CH.
What SoftWash Systems has done is we have as an additional PACK for our systems a three stage filtration / dissolve system that has separate valves, pump and filters that break down the CH much finer and gets better absorption into the water. It seems when the CH is broken down more it doesn't stick as much. Of course moving the garbage cans, moving the BBQ grills, rinsing the plants and windows helps as well. A two man crew usually doesn't have any issues with residue.
We now have about a dozen SoftWash Systems Authorized Professionals across the country using CH exclusively. It just takes mixing, preparation and spraying training and a bit of cool equipment.
Interesting AC, glad you got a way to at least make it usable. Yea, I agree on the hazing issue being able to be dealt with relatively easy,..I remember when I was using it on houses and roofs, Work in the morning hours and rinse like crazy,Ha,Ha,. I would strain it through a vegetable strainer and pantyhose, but I had still had the solubility issue,..your system sound more advanced, Ha,Ha,... Cool,..hope to see it become the choice of everyone eventually.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 12th of February 2014 09:42:48 AM
Jeff Wible said
Feb 16, 2014
Here's an interesting article on SH and CH:
Okay guys, I was a company GM in the chlorine manufacturing business for about 12 years, running out about 6 million gallons of 5.25% sodium hypo or laundry bleach (manufactured at 6.0% for shelf life purposes), about a half million gallons of 12% stock or pool S/H (manufactured at 15%), and 7 million gallons of 15% manufactured for bulk shipment only for largely the paper/pulp industry (manufactured at 18%). Our specifications had to be exact because we were dealing with companies that also tested our products on the other end, the government weights and measures, the EPA and a variety of other agencies who were pretty much always looking to decapitate someone.
Here's the deal. There are reasons each of these products is made different from the others instead of having one product and telling the consumer to dilute. Cal hypo and sodium hypo aren't the same thing plus or minus water. They accomplish some of the same things that are being discussed, but there are many other considerations and how each product will react doing different jobs.
Because of the nature of the finished product, there are no straight line measures of degradation. The stronger the solution in liquid form, the faster it degrades. Household bleach (5.25%) is only made at 6.0%, but has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 mos, but a realistic shelf life under ideal conditions of 12 months. Sodium hypo pool S/H (same product as household but stronger) has to be made at 3% higher than stated value, but because of it's concentration, but will lose that whole 3% within 30 days, and would be down to about 8.5% (a little more than household bleach) plus a lot of salt in 6 months.
Cal hypo is VERY stable until you add water. Then it becomes VERY unstable. It will start to degrade almost immediately. The chlorine starts to come out within minutes and will be very smelly and potentially dangerous within hours. Given the right conditions, it can and I've made it blow up a sealed container. Metal equipment in the area will be attacked by the fumes, and it will sink to the floor level and can cause serious injury to animals or children at floor level.
Cal hypo doesn't really want to dissolve that well either, and when it does, calcium tends to precipitate out and it gets really pretty nasty. The dissolve rate depends on the temperature of the water is being put into. You'll get little dissolve rate at 40 degrees, much more at 70 and much higher at 90. However, the temp of the solution is a strong factor in how fast it becomes unstable. 90 degree household bleach would be smelly, but 90 degree cal hypo will run your butt out of the house.
Also reread your cal hypo labels to learn what you have. It may say 99% cal hypo, but what's important is the available chlorine which is usually 59-65%. It might also be helpful to know what the buffers are in there as well. Not all cal hypos break down the same, and some will leave you with nasty results. Calcium that precipitates out and is left to sit can become very sticky to resemble a highly toxic rubber cement like product that sticks to your pipes and grabs anything that goes by. If you don't have perfectly drained pipes, plan to replace these when the calcium eventually turns the pipe into a solid mass of calcium glue and whatever goes down that drain. Nope! Draino doesn't cut that.
If you want rough equivalants for doing something quickly, you have to know what product you have and when it was produced because the difference between fresh product and 30 day old product can be as much as 25% when it comes to sodium hypo. But figure that 1 gallon of pool sodium hypo = 1# of cal hypo = 2 gallons of household bleach.
Cal hypo dilutions can also be very dangerous depending upon what your water chemistry is. If it's a low pH or has metals in it, it will degrade quickly and sometimes violently. Cal hypo plus water is also known to get very hot quickly depending on the right conditions. That won't matter under normal use conditions for the product like when it's added at 1 lb per 10,000 gallons of pool water, but if your water isn't very good and you add a couple of gallons to a pound of cal hypo in a bucket, a reaction is possible if not probable.
My recommendation is to use cal hypo for your pool, cleaning concrete, and that's about that. Keep some around for emergency sanitizer, but save yourself from a hospital visit.
Bruce Sullivan said
Feb 18, 2014
Jeff Wible wrote:
Here's an interesting article on SH and CH:
Okay guys, I was a company GM in the chlorine manufacturing business for about 12 years, running out about 6 million gallons of 5.25% sodium hypo or laundry bleach (manufactured at 6.0% for shelf life purposes), about a half million gallons of 12% stock or pool S/H (manufactured at 15%), and 7 million gallons of 15% manufactured for bulk shipment only for largely the paper/pulp industry (manufactured at 18%). Our specifications had to be exact because we were dealing with companies that also tested our products on the other end, the government weights and measures, the EPA and a variety of other agencies who were pretty much always looking to decapitate someone.
Here's the deal. There are reasons each of these products is made different from the others instead of having one product and telling the consumer to dilute. Cal hypo and sodium hypo aren't the same thing plus or minus water. They accomplish some of the same things that are being discussed, but there are many other considerations and how each product will react doing different jobs.
Because of the nature of the finished product, there are no straight line measures of degradation. The stronger the solution in liquid form, the faster it degrades. Household bleach (5.25%) is only made at 6.0%, but has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 mos, but a realistic shelf life under ideal conditions of 12 months. Sodium hypo pool S/H (same product as household but stronger) has to be made at 3% higher than stated value, but because of it's concentration, but will lose that whole 3% within 30 days, and would be down to about 8.5% (a little more than household bleach) plus a lot of salt in 6 months.
Cal hypo is VERY stable until you add water. Then it becomes VERY unstable. It will start to degrade almost immediately. The chlorine starts to come out within minutes and will be very smelly and potentially dangerous within hours. Given the right conditions, it can and I've made it blow up a sealed container. Metal equipment in the area will be attacked by the fumes, and it will sink to the floor level and can cause serious injury to animals or children at floor level.
Cal hypo doesn't really want to dissolve that well either, and when it does, calcium tends to precipitate out and it gets really pretty nasty. The dissolve rate depends on the temperature of the water is being put into. You'll get little dissolve rate at 40 degrees, much more at 70 and much higher at 90. However, the temp of the solution is a strong factor in how fast it becomes unstable. 90 degree household bleach would be smelly, but 90 degree cal hypo will run your butt out of the house.
Also reread your cal hypo labels to learn what you have. It may say 99% cal hypo, but what's important is the available chlorine which is usually 59-65%. It might also be helpful to know what the buffers are in there as well. Not all cal hypos break down the same, and some will leave you with nasty results. Calcium that precipitates out and is left to sit can become very sticky to resemble a highly toxic rubber cement like product that sticks to your pipes and grabs anything that goes by. If you don't have perfectly drained pipes, plan to replace these when the calcium eventually turns the pipe into a solid mass of calcium glue and whatever goes down that drain. Nope! Draino doesn't cut that.
If you want rough equivalants for doing something quickly, you have to know what product you have and when it was produced because the difference between fresh product and 30 day old product can be as much as 25% when it comes to sodium hypo. But figure that 1 gallon of pool sodium hypo = 1# of cal hypo = 2 gallons of household bleach.
Cal hypo dilutions can also be very dangerous depending upon what your water chemistry is. If it's a low pH or has metals in it, it will degrade quickly and sometimes violently. Cal hypo plus water is also known to get very hot quickly depending on the right conditions. That won't matter under normal use conditions for the product like when it's added at 1 lb per 10,000 gallons of pool water, but if your water isn't very good and you add a couple of gallons to a pound of cal hypo in a bucket, a reaction is possible if not probable.
My recommendation is to use cal hypo for your pool, cleaning concrete, and that's about that. Keep some around for emergency sanitizer, but save yourself from a hospital visit.
Very good feedback! Wish I had read this earlier would of saved me a ton of research. Your points are right on. Thanks.
Jeff Wible said
Feb 18, 2014
Bruce, just to clarify,..I didn't write this article,..was just something I found while researching CH.
Jeff
Jeff Wible said
Oct 6, 2016
Ok,.back to the CH.
Ok,..for those who may be interested in Calcium Hypochlorite,..here is a picture of a test spot I did on a shed roof on a property today,..I was doing the whole house roof,..which was huge,..and while I was waiting for the roof to dry from the heavy fog we had here this morning,....I decided to hit a spot on the shed roof with Calcium Hypochlorite.
The mix was this: It was HTH from Walmart,..56%. I mixed 3 lbs. into a 5 gallon bucket of water and let it settle overnight,..then pump off the clean CH from the top,..letting the slurry of lime lay on the bottom. I use a small 12V 1 GPM pump for this because I don't want too much suction for fear of drawing the crap from the bottom. For testing I pump it into 1 gallon jugs to use in my 12V hand held spot sprayers I made.
So with my clean CH,..I added a basic soap,.Lauramine Oxide,..(AKA) Ammonyx Lo. I sprayed the spot you see in the picture and it turned this way in 5 minutes or less. Letting this stuff settle REALLY solves alot of the issues with all the hazing. Allowing it to settle and then use as you would a standard mix does work. I did it years ago and had been wanting to dig it back up again. And this is how I remember it working. Oh,.and this wasn't rinsed at this point.
*The recommendation on keep mixing it is severely misguided information! And having to buy activators and all isn't necessary. Anyone buying all those filters and tanks with agitators are really just wasting their money. It isn't needed. This is a simple mix I used,.with CH from Walmart.
I do know that all isn't made the same,..some use a different carbonate in the mix " Lanthanum carbonate" And is said to leave pools more cloudy if used as opposed to standard CH? Zappit 73% is the brand that has this Lanthanum carbonate.
Either way,..letting it settle gives a fairly clear,..yellow liquid,..stick your fingers in it,..rub them together and it smells like regular SH.
I will be further testing the use,.and may buy 100 lb. drum of 65% from Univar. Univar is changing their minimum order and CH may come in handy for some people.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Thursday 6th of October 2016 02:54:55 PM
Hey Art,..CH does work,..just like I said it did when I used it years ago. If anyone remembers the "9 Days" thread from the old RCIA,..they would maybe remember I ALWAYS said it will clean a roof and other mold. I was simply stating what this "New" roof cleaning powder actually was and was just informing people and many got mad at me for it,Ha,Ha,..
I only disagreed with the way it was cloaked as something other than CH,.and potential users weren't being told what the pitfalls could be. Ask Doug Rucker,..I think he had his helper continuing to mix it while spraying it,..UGH!! I think the seller wanted to have a "proprietary" product ,..that was actually able to be had locally by anyone who knew what it was. It does have hurdles,.but not a big deal when handled properly.
Jeff
Art O said
Oct 6, 2016
Jeff this is a old thread, a lot of water under the bridge since then
Maverick Contracting said
Oct 6, 2016
Cabot and probably others use it as composite deck cleaner if I remember correctly
Brandon Vaughn said
Oct 6, 2016
I used CH exclusively in my business for a year and a half. We worked out a very good system for it. Since we are up to 3 trucks now, it makes more financial sense to switch to SH, which we now use exclusively.
Jeff Wible said
Oct 7, 2016
Brandon,..just curious what was your system for CH,..others may be able to benefit,.......and what was the cost comparisons to using SH?
I personally see no real system needed,.other than letting it settle then use regularly.
I have crunched the numbers a few times and it comes out this way for me. For a 5 gallon bucket of roof strength Ch it will cost $6.15 and for SH it would be $8.33. That comes to $26.00 savings on a 60 gallon roof mix. I do not plan on switching to CH from SH due to this. Because SH is easier to use and I'd still rather just charge the customer enough to make using SH the better option. But Univar is doing some changes and it may be a more suitable option for some guys.
Although you can get CH to work on roofs I don't think it can be made as strong as 12.5% SH. But 12.5% isn't necessarily needed,..although I do use it full strength at times in a spot sprayer.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Friday 7th of October 2016 05:56:56 AM
Maverick Contracting said
Oct 7, 2016
For that price difference I see the time factor of mixing and waiting to settle isn't worth it
Jeff Wible said
Oct 7, 2016
Maverick Contracting wrote:
For that price difference I see the time factor of mixing and waiting to settle isn't worth it
I agree Maverick,.but it is nice to know how to work with another product if ever the need would arise.
Jeff
Admin said
Sep 12, 2018
We had NJ Ned Steven looking at this thread today
John Aloisio said
Sep 13, 2018
That's Interesting....
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Sep 13, 2018
Yeah he is adding it to his "Diamond" Package- Let us make your house white becuase my guys who are untrained kill shrubs with the correct product. HAha....
waxman18324 said
Sep 13, 2018
I can see it now...They will have the same issues that Doug had years ago.
Hank
Oasis Power Wash said
Sep 18, 2018
Very interesting thread...As of yesterday ran into a customer looking for a roof cleaning so I ran out to give an estimate and he insisted that no bleach be used on his barrel roof. Asking him why he said he had done some research on cleaning roofs using hydrogen peroxide and that it would not harm plants. I have done some reading on HP but am curious if anyone else heard of using hydrogen peroxide to clean and kill mildew off roofs.
Art O said
Sep 18, 2018
Oasis Power Wash wrote:
Very interesting thread...As of yesterday ran into a customer looking for a roof cleaning so I ran out to give an estimate and he insisted that no bleach be used on his barrel roof. Asking him why he said he had done some research on cleaning roofs using hydrogen peroxide and that it would not harm plants. I have done some reading on HP but am curious if anyone else heard of using hydrogen peroxide to clean and kill mildew off roofs.
As AC once said, "If your killing the plant on the roof, You can kill the plants on the ground" or something like that!
Diamond Roof Cleaning said
Sep 18, 2018
All that does is turn the black algae blacker and then you have to power wash it off. Dont believe me then try it and see what happens.
Patrick G said
Sep 18, 2018
hydrogen peroxide is explosive, I let people know that and ask if they want that on their roof?
Jeff Wible said
Nov 20, 2018
Hydrogen Peroxide is essentially the same thing as Sodium Percarbonate. Percarbonate is just a powder form of Peroxide. There used to be a product called "Roof OX" or something to that effect,...as Mike stated,..just turns it darker,...and then needs power washed off,...and has no killing power of roof mold(s).
Not looking to start an issue,...but wondering if there has been anymore work done by AC on the original "Bleach Wash"? Not sure where the standing on this stuff was and even if anyone else has messed with it at all. I love the idea of it,..if I could get this to work as easily as liquid hypo it would be a MAJOR step forward for me and I'm sure others as well.
If I remember right, Doug used it and it worked for the cleaning, white haze left behind was the issue. I can't believe with all the brains around these boards we can't get it figured out to make it a viable alternative. Funny thing is,..if it weren't for liquid hypo,..we WOULD make it work,.Ha,Ha,...
Jeff
Maybe if you send him a message on this board or check it out on his board?
There are a bunch of guys using solely CH at this time, and there is another bunch of guys who are augmenting with it (a mixture of both CH and SH)
Yea, Zach,..I don't blame you for not saying. I figure it will surface eventually on it's own if it actually has merit. I won't ask AC to reveal anything. I know it can be done,..I used it for about 4-5 years on roofs and house,..basically in place of SH. It does work.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 12th of February 2014 08:25:27 AM
I will shoot him a message about this thread so he can extrapolate and expound.
He is on the road so it may take a bit.
If AC has a product that works I wouldn't blame him if he doesn't want to disclose it. If it works with the same ease and effectiveness as liquid hypo it will expose itself on it's own.
Jeff
Jeff,
We don't have a product we sell that is the CH. CH is used in the pool and paper mill industries and they don't need it to be clean of silt. Until we start using it in enough volume to bring it in pure and add different additives and fillers to it we just have to go with the same old 68% CH.
What SoftWash Systems has done is we have as an additional PACK for our systems a three stage filtration / dissolve system that has separate valves, pump and filters that break down the CH much finer and gets better absorption into the water. It seems when the CH is broken down more it doesn't stick as much. Of course moving the garbage cans, moving the BBQ grills, rinsing the plants and windows helps as well. A two man crew usually doesn't have any issues with residue.
We now have about a dozen SoftWash Systems Authorized Professionals across the country using CH exclusively. It just takes mixing, preparation and spraying training and a bit of cool equipment.
AC
Interesting AC, glad you got a way to at least make it usable. Yea, I agree on the hazing issue being able to be dealt with relatively easy,..I remember when I was using it on houses and roofs, Work in the morning hours and rinse like crazy,Ha,Ha,. I would strain it through a vegetable strainer and pantyhose, but I had still had the solubility issue,..your system sound more advanced, Ha,Ha,... Cool,..hope to see it become the choice of everyone eventually.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 12th of February 2014 09:42:48 AM
Okay guys, I was a company GM in the chlorine manufacturing business for about 12 years, running out about 6 million gallons of 5.25% sodium hypo or laundry bleach (manufactured at 6.0% for shelf life purposes), about a half million gallons of 12% stock or pool S/H (manufactured at 15%), and 7 million gallons of 15% manufactured for bulk shipment only for largely the paper/pulp industry (manufactured at 18%). Our specifications had to be exact because we were dealing with companies that also tested our products on the other end, the government weights and measures, the EPA and a variety of other agencies who were pretty much always looking to decapitate someone.
Here's the deal. There are reasons each of these products is made different from the others instead of having one product and telling the consumer to dilute. Cal hypo and sodium hypo aren't the same thing plus or minus water. They accomplish some of the same things that are being discussed, but there are many other considerations and how each product will react doing different jobs.
Because of the nature of the finished product, there are no straight line measures of degradation. The stronger the solution in liquid form, the faster it degrades. Household bleach (5.25%) is only made at 6.0%, but has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 mos, but a realistic shelf life under ideal conditions of 12 months. Sodium hypo pool S/H (same product as household but stronger) has to be made at 3% higher than stated value, but because of it's concentration, but will lose that whole 3% within 30 days, and would be down to about 8.5% (a little more than household bleach) plus a lot of salt in 6 months.
Cal hypo is VERY stable until you add water. Then it becomes VERY unstable. It will start to degrade almost immediately. The chlorine starts to come out within minutes and will be very smelly and potentially dangerous within hours. Given the right conditions, it can and I've made it blow up a sealed container. Metal equipment in the area will be attacked by the fumes, and it will sink to the floor level and can cause serious injury to animals or children at floor level.
Cal hypo doesn't really want to dissolve that well either, and when it does, calcium tends to precipitate out and it gets really pretty nasty. The dissolve rate depends on the temperature of the water is being put into. You'll get little dissolve rate at 40 degrees, much more at 70 and much higher at 90. However, the temp of the solution is a strong factor in how fast it becomes unstable. 90 degree household bleach would be smelly, but 90 degree cal hypo will run your butt out of the house.
Also reread your cal hypo labels to learn what you have. It may say 99% cal hypo, but what's important is the available chlorine which is usually 59-65%. It might also be helpful to know what the buffers are in there as well. Not all cal hypos break down the same, and some will leave you with nasty results. Calcium that precipitates out and is left to sit can become very sticky to resemble a highly toxic rubber cement like product that sticks to your pipes and grabs anything that goes by. If you don't have perfectly drained pipes, plan to replace these when the calcium eventually turns the pipe into a solid mass of calcium glue and whatever goes down that drain. Nope! Draino doesn't cut that.
If you want rough equivalants for doing something quickly, you have to know what product you have and when it was produced because the difference between fresh product and 30 day old product can be as much as 25% when it comes to sodium hypo. But figure that 1 gallon of pool sodium hypo = 1# of cal hypo = 2 gallons of household bleach.
Cal hypo dilutions can also be very dangerous depending upon what your water chemistry is. If it's a low pH or has metals in it, it will degrade quickly and sometimes violently. Cal hypo plus water is also known to get very hot quickly depending on the right conditions. That won't matter under normal use conditions for the product like when it's added at 1 lb per 10,000 gallons of pool water, but if your water isn't very good and you add a couple of gallons to a pound of cal hypo in a bucket, a reaction is possible if not probable.
My recommendation is to use cal hypo for your pool, cleaning concrete, and that's about that. Keep some around for emergency sanitizer, but save yourself from a hospital visit.
Very good feedback! Wish I had read this earlier would of saved me a ton of research.
Your points are right on. Thanks.
Jeff
Ok,.back to the CH.
Ok,..for those who may be interested in Calcium Hypochlorite,..here is a picture of a test spot I did on a shed roof on a property today,..I was doing the whole house roof,..which was huge,..and while I was waiting for the roof to dry from the heavy fog we had here this morning,....I decided to hit a spot on the shed roof with Calcium Hypochlorite.
The mix was this: It was HTH from Walmart,..56%. I mixed 3 lbs. into a 5 gallon bucket of water and let it settle overnight,..then pump off the clean CH from the top,..letting the slurry of lime lay on the bottom. I use a small 12V 1 GPM pump for this because I don't want too much suction for fear of drawing the crap from the bottom. For testing I pump it into 1 gallon jugs to use in my 12V hand held spot sprayers I made.
So with my clean CH,..I added a basic soap,.Lauramine Oxide,..(AKA) Ammonyx Lo. I sprayed the spot you see in the picture and it turned this way in 5 minutes or less. Letting this stuff settle REALLY solves alot of the issues with all the hazing. Allowing it to settle and then use as you would a standard mix does work. I did it years ago and had been wanting to dig it back up again. And this is how I remember it working. Oh,.and this wasn't rinsed at this point.
*The recommendation on keep mixing it is severely misguided information! And having to buy activators and all isn't necessary. Anyone buying all those filters and tanks with agitators are really just wasting their money. It isn't needed. This is a simple mix I used,.with CH from Walmart.
I do know that all isn't made the same,..some use a different carbonate in the mix " Lanthanum carbonate" And is said to leave pools more cloudy if used as opposed to standard CH? Zappit 73% is the brand that has this Lanthanum carbonate.
Either way,..letting it settle gives a fairly clear,..yellow liquid,..stick your fingers in it,..rub them together and it smells like regular SH.
I will be further testing the use,.and may buy 100 lb. drum of 65% from Univar. Univar is changing their minimum order and CH may come in handy for some people.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Thursday 6th of October 2016 02:54:55 PM
I only disagreed with the way it was cloaked as something other than CH,.and potential users weren't being told what the pitfalls could be. Ask Doug Rucker,..I think he had his helper continuing to mix it while spraying it,..UGH!! I think the seller wanted to have a "proprietary" product ,..that was actually able to be had locally by anyone who knew what it was. It does have hurdles,.but not a big deal when handled properly.
Jeff
I used CH exclusively in my business for a year and a half. We worked out a very good system for it. Since we are up to 3 trucks now, it makes more financial sense to switch to SH, which we now use exclusively.
Brandon,..just curious what was your system for CH,..others may be able to benefit,.......and what was the cost comparisons to using SH?
I personally see no real system needed,.other than letting it settle then use regularly.
I have crunched the numbers a few times and it comes out this way for me. For a 5 gallon bucket of roof strength Ch it will cost $6.15 and for SH it would be $8.33. That comes to $26.00 savings on a 60 gallon roof mix. I do not plan on switching to CH from SH due to this. Because SH is easier to use and I'd still rather just charge the customer enough to make using SH the better option. But Univar is doing some changes and it may be a more suitable option for some guys.
Although you can get CH to work on roofs I don't think it can be made as strong as 12.5% SH. But 12.5% isn't necessarily needed,..although I do use it full strength at times in a spot sprayer.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Friday 7th of October 2016 05:56:56 AM
I agree Maverick,.but it is nice to know how to work with another product if ever the need would arise.
Jeff
That's Interesting....
Hank
As AC once said, "If your killing the plant on the roof, You can kill the plants on the ground" or something like that!
Jeff
https://www.longislandroofwashers.com/single-post/10-things-every-homeowner-should-know-about-residential-roof-soft-washing