I like saddle tanks...never really liked the square type.
However, one problem with the saddle tanks is the fact that there is always an unusable volume of liquid because of the design. This isn't a problem when its a flow tank but I just bought a 65 gal that I was planning on using for a mix tank and was thinking that if I filled it with something that wouldn't get sucked into the pump, I could suck 100% of the volume out. I was thinking of getting another 65 to hold the SH and would have the same problem.
I'm trying to downsize to a smaller setup....so tired of 1 ton's and trailers. I do a lot of house washes and I think I'd be okay with 1 mixed and 60 gal of SH. I want a push button system..one pump and some ball valves to fill the mix tank with either water or SH straight from the tanks.
My first thought was an epoxy. You could even let it setup with the tank on an incline so that when it was mounted flat, it had a slope to the discharge outlet. Even 3" rounded stones would displace the liquid somewhat and allow for more mix to the pump.
Has anyone else looked into this?
DirtyRoofcom said
Apr 22, 2014
how is the saddle tank different?
Just some quick thoughts. large stones is still going to leave you with a decent amount of unused liquid. small stones would be best but might get sucked up into system. It might be more feasible to have a tank made then to go through time and expense of retrofitting one.
Barry R said
Apr 22, 2014
DirtyRoofcom wrote:
how is the saddle tank different?
Just some quick thoughts. large stones is still going to leave you with a decent amount of unused liquid. small stones would be best but might get sucked up into system. It might be more feasible to have a tank made then to go through time and expense of retrofitting one.
The feet are part of the tank and the outlet is a few inches above the radius...so you can't really drain a mounted tank.
Roof Cleaning Virginia said
Apr 23, 2014
Barry, have you considered drawing from the top? We run rigid (pvc) down tubes to a fabricated well tip filter in a "L" type of configuration. Only the bottom of the well tip filter is perf'd which ensures that the majority of the fluid is accessed. It allows us to drain the tank save for a gallon or two, especially on uneven ground.
Much like you've mentioned, our trucks have one active pump. Water, mix and SH are all accessed via a simple ball valve config. It vastly minimizes failure points for us and works great.
Dave O said
Apr 23, 2014
I also have a saddle tank as the one shown in this thread. I use a drop stick and drop the end of the stick towards the bulkhead. When I back the rig onto the HO's sloped driveway the liquid in the tank settles towards the bulkhead allowing the pump to suck the tank dry if needed. However I usually don't need to do that as I usually mix more than enough for the job.
Barry R said
Apr 23, 2014
Roof Cleaning Virginia wrote:
Barry, have you considered drawing from the top? We run rigid (pvc) down tubes to a fabricated well tip filter in a "L" type of configuration. Only the bottom of the well tip filter is perf'd which ensures that the majority of the fluid is accessed. It allows us to drain the tank save for a gallon or two, especially on uneven ground.
Much like you've mentioned, our trucks have one active pump. Water, mix and SH are all accessed via a simple ball valve config. It vastly minimizes failure points for us and works great.
I would rather not plumb from the top of the tank. I've been doing it that way for years...I want as much surface mounted as possible.
Your description is pretty close to my intention. I plan on having a manifold of sorts, a series of valves to direct water or SH to the mix tank or pull from the mix tank to the reel. I haven't sketched up the plumbing but it's pretty simplistic. I'm planning on running this off a flatbed so some of the plumbing could be underneath. I've had this idea of single sourcing the pump and flipping to flatbed for years but every season I get dog knotted in the full conversion and just never do it. This season I plan on doing it in parts, moving the roof setup first.
My policy is to never service from the driveway. We can accomplish this for 90%+ of the calls. Sometimes the setback is too far and we have no choice. Sometimes the street is on a slope but sometimes the slope is the wrong direction. Driveway slope is not really a solution for me.
Accuwash said
Apr 26, 2014
We use a draw tube and stick it where we need it on both rigs. I have done bulk heads and all that, its a great way for a helper to send mix back to the bulk tank and lots of extra parts to break. i draw tube, one 3 way valve to prime, so simple and doesn't break anymore. We use 2- 50 gallon loaf or saddle tanks and you can move the tube to the low spot to get most of it.
I like saddle tanks...never really liked the square type.
However, one problem with the saddle tanks is the fact that there is always an unusable volume of liquid because of the design. This isn't a problem when its a flow tank but I just bought a 65 gal that I was planning on using for a mix tank and was thinking that if I filled it with something that wouldn't get sucked into the pump, I could suck 100% of the volume out. I was thinking of getting another 65 to hold the SH and would have the same problem.
I'm trying to downsize to a smaller setup....so tired of 1 ton's and trailers. I do a lot of house washes and I think I'd be okay with 1 mixed and 60 gal of SH. I want a push button system..one pump and some ball valves to fill the mix tank with either water or SH straight from the tanks.
My first thought was an epoxy. You could even let it setup with the tank on an incline so that when it was mounted flat, it had a slope to the discharge outlet. Even 3" rounded stones would displace the liquid somewhat and allow for more mix to the pump.
Has anyone else looked into this?
Just some quick thoughts. large stones is still going to leave you with a decent amount of unused liquid. small stones would be best but might get sucked up into system. It might be more feasible to have a tank made then to go through time and expense of retrofitting one.
The feet are part of the tank and the outlet is a few inches above the radius...so you can't really drain a mounted tank.
Much like you've mentioned, our trucks have one active pump. Water, mix and SH are all accessed via a simple ball valve config. It vastly minimizes failure points for us and works great.
I would rather not plumb from the top of the tank. I've been doing it that way for years...I want as much surface mounted as possible.
Your description is pretty close to my intention. I plan on having a manifold of sorts, a series of valves to direct water or SH to the mix tank or pull from the mix tank to the reel. I haven't sketched up the plumbing but it's pretty simplistic. I'm planning on running this off a flatbed so some of the plumbing could be underneath. I've had this idea of single sourcing the pump and flipping to flatbed for years but every season I get dog knotted in the full conversion and just never do it. This season I plan on doing it in parts, moving the roof setup first.
My policy is to never service from the driveway. We can accomplish this for 90%+ of the calls. Sometimes the setback is too far and we have no choice. Sometimes the street is on a slope but sometimes the slope is the wrong direction. Driveway slope is not really a solution for me.