Has anyone tried sodiprecobonate? Was wondering how much to add to a 5 gallon bucket? I did a powder to hot water test on  concrete and worked really good. How about a roof?

Jeff Wible wrote:

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Hey Maverick,..usually 8 OZ. per gallon mixed in hot water is the way to use Sodium Percarbonate. If you bump it up a little with the addition of Sodium Hydroxide you'll get a more effective mix,..adding a surfactant is a good idea as well. Cling and helps stay wet longer,..same as on asphalt shingles. The Hydroxide will also help dissolve Sodium Percarbonate if hot water isn't available.

These days,..on raw wood cleaning of any type I prefer to make a hot batch of Sodium Hydroxide and DS. Much faster and works the same. 8 OZ. per gallon is a good start,..but hydroxide can be mixed really hot though.

Neutralize with Oxalic acid,..I never tried Citric acid,..but I remember people using it years agoto neutralize.

*I hate older cedar shingles that have physical growth coming out of the edges,...in fact,..I would turn those down these days, Ha, Ha,..

Jeff

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Great answer Jeff! The only thing we do different is pre-wet to help with the cling. Also totally agree with you on older cedar with the "hair" moss/algae growing out of the butt end.

I hope you are using a lift, I would never take the chance with a cedar or slate roof. We either won't do the roof or they agree to cleaning from the gutter line. As long as the precarbonate is dissolved like Jeff said, there won't be any crystals going through the pump. When we used 12v pumps daily, I found the higher big jobs would kill the pump with all the head pressure. I would consider the pump as part of the job quote.

this property is only greyed out, no grime or growth.

May just percarb and then rinse w/o pressure as there are a lot of hard areas to reach.

My question is what ratio dependant on what the percentage of dry percarb?

8oz of 99% pure S.P. to a gallon or a lower % dry S.p.? and how many sq/ft that will do?

-- Edited by Maverick Contracting on Sunday 25th of July 2021 03:29:44 PM

I hope NOT to seal only because of how many hard to get to areas safely AND trying to put up protection for painted areas, windows, etc.

cleaning alone depending on how it's done will easily be guestimate $30k-$60k plus scaffolding guesting $20k-$30k plus materials ?$ etc.

If we stain that's gonna be a lot more money and has to be done by hand as its beachfront and super windy. you'd lose 90% material blowing away spraying with an airless.

if just cleaning with 12V a 50-60ft articulating boom lift would be ideal but property manager absolutely said no to that.

these are Hampton homes, the natural greyed weathered look is normal. Nearly every house is built like this. Its a $15 million home and that's cheap, many go way past $30 million and this guy keeps us busy 4 months a year plus another main home so if he wants something done my job is to figure out the best and most efficient way to do it.

Oh and as of last night I got the ok for an atrium lift or tracked spider lift which is another challenge finding just the right one! But will make it much easier.

I say no to many small one time customers that try to lowball me.

This guy owns a hedge fund and as long as I justify the cost, hes ok with the money.
Have a handful of customers like this
guaranteed yearly work for life.

damn good point on the air stalling issue with 12v!

may tey X-jet it but that would dilute too much.
Sh!t good catch I never took that into account.

I do have a foamer canister but too small.

another monkey wrench!

So how do others apply percarb?

maybe Bruce will chime in? lol

Maybe after it sits for an hour or so after first mixing it may be ok?? Maybe the air is worse when first mixed? I always used mine right after mixing and I remember the growling my small 5 gallon 12v sprayer did. I think for larger jobs I made a dip tube for 5 gallon bucket and used my AAOD roof pump.

I also remember years ago using Sodium Percarbonate in pump sprayers,..have to be careful there to because when mixed it releases gas and makes a pump sprayer expand when not being sprayed. Never really had to pump much though,..Ha, Ha,..

I rarely use Sodium Percarbonate,..I prefer Sodium Hydroxide,..does the same thing and is easier to mix,..and in the case of a 12V,..wouldn't cause the growling. But,..jobs around water may require the use of Sodium Percarbonate,...in case anyone would walk up and ask.

I think Bruce had some concoction of his own he was using,...it was something proprietary? But,..he has sprayed Sodium Percarbonate at one point in his life,...so he may have some input.

*Experiment a little with DS'ing Sodium Hydroxide. Either for this job or for future use. Once you get that figured out I think you'll like it.  Start with 8 OZ. per gallon and DS,..and then adjust your mix from there. 

**I've never x-jetted but  Sodium Hydroxide could also be applied that way ,...just have to adjust your mix. Takes a little experimenting. 

Jeff

Maverick Contracting wrote:

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damn good point on the air stalling issue with 12v!

may tey X-jet it but that would dilute too much.
Sh!t good catch I never took that into account.

I do have a foamer canister but too small.

another monkey wrench!

 

So how do others apply percarb?

maybe Bruce will chime in? lol

-- Edited by Maverick Contracting on Tuesday 27th of July 2021 12:12:09 PM

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Whenever doing decks we mix percarbonate with hydroxide. This mix was thanks to David Hoover (Pink Elephant). We always apply with a 12v pump I screwed on the top of a 5 gal bucket and just set the lid there without locking it on. I also got a tractor battery that I keep in a Rubbermaid container with a switch. I had some leftover hose and used Banjo fittings on both ends (our poly guns have female Banjo fittings).

Bruce sprays bleach on everything. He doesn't used precarbonate of hydroxide. To be honest, his "proprietary blend" is something we came up with. He then started his Cedar thing charging people to certify them. Many fell for it.

I thought Bruce used percarbonate?
I'm not using hydroxide aka lye/draino.

Its just weathered grey and even new shingles from window replacement 2 years ago are greyed so unless they are treated with a finish it's not gonna last.

 first pic was may 2019