The stainless steel quick connect we currently use has to be periodically replaced due to the ball bearings. They rust way. Does anyone use a better QC? If so, where do you get it?
Have you ever had one fall out and jam your spray tip? That's always fun lol
We have been flushing our system with final wash by softwash systems and leave the spray wand and tips sitting in the solution while it circulates in the system. We are still on the same one that we started the year with, but will be swapping it out in a week or so. I buy them 10 at a time, so I don't mind swapping them out on occasion.
Admin said
Jun 6, 2017
Zach Maynard wrote:
Have you ever had one fall out and jam your spray tip? That's always fun lol
We have been flushing our system with final wash by softwash systems and leave the spray wand and tips sitting in the solution while it circulates in the system. We are still on the same one that we started the year with, but will be swapping it out in a week or so. I buy them 10 at a time, so I don't mind swapping them out on occasion.
You buy real stainless, Jap stainless or Brass Zach?
Zach Maynard said
Jun 6, 2017
I assume jap but the brand is Legacy.
Admin said
Jun 6, 2017
Zach Maynard wrote:
I assume jap but the brand is Legacy.
Just bought 4 Brass on Ebay for $2.30 each. I'm sure they are junk.
Fred W said
Jun 6, 2017
I purchased the heavy duty stainless at like $15+ per piece and they are junk. Leaked from the get go, I buy the cheap ones from the Power Wash Store and like Zach I buy them in bulk. Just replace as needed.
Steve Salley said
Jun 6, 2017
We just switched to the "better stainless steel" and they have leaked from the very first day just like Doug said!
The old ones lasted a full season plus, but not anymore.
Good thing it pays to buy top quality fittings!
We live in a throw away society for sure. Buy cheap and replace. Hate it but can't fix broke
BlueRidge said
Jun 6, 2017
I tried Hanson but they don't do well with the J rod so I went back to Chinese. The quick connects last a long time for us and haven't had a problem with them falling apart for years. After each job the system is rinsed then the quick connects are sprayed with lubricant. We pull them back and spray everything then put the gun away. It has worked well for many years now. I also use heat resistant O rings. As soon as it starts to leak it is replaced.
Bryan P said
Jun 6, 2017
I have the same experience as Brett. I do have a Hanson on my trigger gun, and it doesn't like the Jrod but I muscle it on there and it works. I started with the Legacy one, and it lasted four or five months. The Hanson one has been on for 6 or 7 and still works. I rinse after every job with just water.
Jeff Wible said
Jun 7, 2017
I use the cheap ones also,..if you see them starting to rust ,..give them a soak in some oxalic overnight,..wake up to a brand new looking,.and working connector. Extends the useful life greatly. As far as the leaking from the get go,.the worse ones I seen for this are the Legacy,..I don't even have any of those left.
Something else to try though is using Buna N o-rings in these problem fittings,..I've done that and noticed this has fixed the issue a few times,....I think it's likely due to the fact that Buna N is softer than Viton,..and maybe forms better to bad machined parts??? Especially in lower pressure applications,..because higher pressure will squash the o-ring into the fitting better than low pressure. And Viton being harder,..doesn't squash into conformity as well as the softer Buna N,..Which is Nitrile by the way.
Viton is just more chemical resilient,...but using the Buna N makes sense in this situation. They are actually fairly resistant ,..but what gets them is they are soft and begin to degrade from simply using them.
Another thing that can cause leaks,.and will sneak up on you is the nipple that goes into the coupler,..if that little machined end begins to get degraded due to rust,..it will not seat properly down against the o-ring inside the quick coupler,..and the user may assume it's the quick coupler,.whereas it's not always the case.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 7th of June 2017 06:19:46 AM
Dave O said
Jun 8, 2017
I used to flush the QC with water and lubricate with grease. I did not notice a significant difference in the life of the QC. The ball bearings still rust away and fall out. And yes occasionally one will get jammed in the nozzle...LOL.
Jeff said
Jun 11, 2017
Hello all, I am re-posting this from another thread here and hope it helps. This remains a great forum!
July 2016....I thought I'd share a small success of mine that might help someone else. I had been changing out stainless QC every other job even after rinsing etc. Mostly bearing issues, but O rings as well I guess.
I bought brass QC and started to use the Red N Tacky grease after a mechanic buddy suggested it. It has rust inhibitors and acts like a barrier to the solution. I pull down the QC and pack the bearings good on the outside and inside, with grease before, during and after the job rinse, coating the inside as well. I am on on the same QC after 12 jobs. I haven't tried it on stainless yet, maybe I'll have even better results with those.
June 2017..update..this stuff is great! You have to give it a try and you wont regret it!
All quick connects suck. The best solution that I've come up with and actually learned through Softwash Systems as much as hate to admit it is to Use a 3-4" piece of PVC, around 10" deep. We fill it with CLR and store the wands in after we roll up. Not sure to what length it works, but we get 3-4 months of use.
Jeff Wible said
Jun 12, 2017
@Michael Wedge,.....The CLR is an acid,.and is essentially doing the same thing I mentioned as to using the oxalic acid. Although I don't let them in the solution all the time,..as I see no need,..Overnight every now and then or when you see a rust issue forming seems to be enough. but I've been doing this for about 10 years and it greatly improved the life of QC. I mentioned it years ago on the old RCIA forum.
@Jeff Newman,...if you were changing quick connects every other job,.whatever you had were beyond junk. With that said,..the grease idea likely does help.
Jeff
Bruce Sullivan said
Jun 25, 2017
I know this may seem crazy but anti-freeze works great. At the end of the day I put my wand tip, that has the quick release, in a gallon of anti-freeze. I cut an opening near the top of the gallon jug and just place the wand tip in. I have had the same quick release tip for months. FFT.
Jeff Wible said
Jun 25, 2017
Hey Bruce,..doesn't seem crazy at all,... anti-freeze has anti corrosion properties and also lubrication properties,.. in which both would be good for the purpose here. Good idea!
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Sunday 25th of June 2017 12:00:49 PM
Fred W said
Jun 25, 2017
Yeah, great idea Bruce!
Jeff said
Jun 27, 2017
Sounds like the anti freeze has the same properties of the red&tacky grease. I might have had low quality QCs, but the grease solved even low quality bearings and worked well for me. Good discussions and ideas as always here!
The stainless steel quick connect we currently use has to be periodically replaced due to the ball bearings. They rust way. Does anyone use a better QC? If so, where do you get it?
http://www.advantageroofcleaning.com/cedar-roof-cleaning/
We have been flushing our system with final wash by softwash systems and leave the spray wand and tips sitting in the solution while it circulates in the system. We are still on the same one that we started the year with, but will be swapping it out in a week or so. I buy them 10 at a time, so I don't mind swapping them out on occasion.
You buy real stainless, Jap stainless or Brass Zach?
Just bought 4 Brass on Ebay for $2.30 each. I'm sure they are junk.
The old ones lasted a full season plus, but not anymore.
Good thing it pays to buy top quality fittings!
We live in a throw away society for sure. Buy cheap and replace. Hate it but can't fix broke
I tried Hanson but they don't do well with the J rod so I went back to Chinese. The quick connects last a long time for us and haven't had a problem with them falling apart for years. After each job the system is rinsed then the quick connects are sprayed with lubricant. We pull them back and spray everything then put the gun away. It has worked well for many years now. I also use heat resistant O rings. As soon as it starts to leak it is replaced.
I use the cheap ones also,..if you see them starting to rust ,..give them a soak in some oxalic overnight,..wake up to a brand new looking,.and working connector. Extends the useful life greatly. As far as the leaking from the get go,.the worse ones I seen for this are the Legacy,..I don't even have any of those left.
Something else to try though is using Buna N o-rings in these problem fittings,..I've done that and noticed this has fixed the issue a few times,....I think it's likely due to the fact that Buna N is softer than Viton,..and maybe forms better to bad machined parts??? Especially in lower pressure applications,..because higher pressure will squash the o-ring into the fitting better than low pressure. And Viton being harder,..doesn't squash into conformity as well as the softer Buna N,..Which is Nitrile by the way.
Viton is just more chemical resilient,...but using the Buna N makes sense in this situation. They are actually fairly resistant ,..but what gets them is they are soft and begin to degrade from simply using them.
Another thing that can cause leaks,.and will sneak up on you is the nipple that goes into the coupler,..if that little machined end begins to get degraded due to rust,..it will not seat properly down against the o-ring inside the quick coupler,..and the user may assume it's the quick coupler,.whereas it's not always the case.
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Wednesday 7th of June 2017 06:19:46 AM
Hello all, I am re-posting this from another thread here and hope it helps. This remains a great forum!
July 2016....I thought I'd share a small success of mine that might help someone else. I had been changing out stainless QC every other job even after rinsing etc. Mostly bearing issues, but O rings as well I guess.
I bought brass QC and started to use the Red N Tacky grease after a mechanic buddy suggested it. It has rust inhibitors and acts like a barrier to the solution. I pull down the QC and pack the bearings good on the outside and inside, with grease before, during and after the job rinse, coating the inside as well. I am on on the same QC after 12 jobs. I haven't tried it on stainless yet, maybe I'll have even better results with those.
June 2017..update..this stuff is great! You have to give it a try and you wont regret it!
Good Luck!
V/r Jeff
Red "N" Tacky Grease - Lucas Oil
All quick connects suck. The best solution that I've come up with and actually learned through Softwash Systems as much as hate to admit it is to Use a 3-4" piece of PVC, around 10" deep. We fill it with CLR and store the wands in after we roll up. Not sure to what length it works, but we get 3-4 months of use.
@Jeff Newman,...if you were changing quick connects every other job,.whatever you had were beyond junk. With that said,..the grease idea likely does help.
Jeff
Hey Bruce,..doesn't seem crazy at all,... anti-freeze has anti corrosion properties and also lubrication properties,.. in which both would be good for the purpose here. Good idea!
Jeff
-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Sunday 25th of June 2017 12:00:49 PM
Sounds like the anti freeze has the same properties of the red&tacky grease. I might have had low quality QCs, but the grease solved even low quality bearings and worked well for me. Good discussions and ideas as always here!
V/r jeff
www.advantageroofcleaning.com/soft-washing-exterior-siding-cleaning/