I have researched the best way to add a pressure switch to the booster and found the solution. I called both companies to make sure this will work before I posted. The biggest two problems with adding a pressure switch are the pressure cut on/off pressures. Most switches are too low for our needs and the SH will rot the diaphragm out quickly. Add an isolator will keep the SH out of the pressure switch. This can be done for about $130.00 per pump.
We're running at about 120 so I was going to adjust it to about 90/110. Those switches can be adjusted to 80/100.
Jason Watkins said
Jan 8, 2018
Wow this looks great. Nice job researching everything. Have you tried it out yet?
BlueRidge said
Jan 8, 2018
Jason Watkins wrote:
Wow this looks great. Nice job researching everything. Have you tried it out yet?
I just ordered two of each and will install at least one set when they arrive. I'll do the testing and let you know how it goes. I'll install the other set on truck two while I finish the build over the winter.
Power Wash Plus said
Jan 8, 2018
ProPortioner makes one called the ProSwitch. Not sure what they run. PWS carries them.
Jason Watkins said
Jan 8, 2018
They are like $450.
BlueRidge said
Jan 9, 2018
Jason Watkins wrote:
They are like $450.
I'll order a bunch, get a better deal, put them together and put my logo on them and give you a deal of $300.00!
Mario said
Jan 18, 2018
This looks pretty interesting. Do you know what the vacuum port is for?
BlueRidge said
Jan 18, 2018
Mario wrote:
This looks pretty interesting. Do you know what the vacuum port is for?
I got an email saying the supplier about doubled the price. I went with a different one so I don't know. I called the company after reading the info and found this will work. The recomended list was about 46.00. I got it on Amazon for 38.00. I bought three. One for back up.
This one looks good too.
http://catalog.marquestscientific.com/item/gauge-isolators-mini-tuff-guard-no-gauge-installed/rd-no-gauge-installed-pvc-mini-tuff-gauge-isolator/mtg-22-pvc
BlueRidge said
Jan 19, 2018
Mario wrote:
This one looks good too. http://catalog.marquestscientific.com/item/gauge-isolators-mini-tuff-guard-no-gauge-installed/rd-no-gauge-installed-pvc-mini-tuff-gauge-isolator/mtg-22-pvc
Perfect Mario! The whole thing is to just get the pump to work just like a well pump as cheaply as possible!
Brian C Jackson said
Jan 19, 2018
Cant wait to see one of these put together. I want to change over to a pressure switch but in on a brad new control wizard and it does work great.
BlueRidge said
Jan 19, 2018
Brian C Jackson wrote:
Cant wait to see one of these put together. I want to change over to a pressure switch but in on a brad new control wizard and it does work great.
As soon as the isolators get here I will be installing the set up, most likely next week. I'm not sure when I'll be able to test it since there is no water in the tank.
Art O said
Jan 23, 2018
You working on this yet?
BlueRidge said
Jan 23, 2018
Art O wrote:
You working on this yet?
All the parts are in as of today. I finished the new remote for down streaming and the new float switch with 12V valve for the buffer tank today. Tomorrow I will start and hopefully finish the booster pressure switch. I'll post pictures of it all when I'm finished unless you would prefer a selfie video!
waxman18324 said
Jan 23, 2018
BlueRidge wrote:
Art O wrote:
You working on this yet?
All the parts are in as of today. I finished the new remote for down streaming and the new float switch with 12V valve for the buffer tank today. Tomorrow I will start and hopefully finish the booster pressure switch. I'll post pictures of it all when I'm finished unless you would prefer a selfie video!
A selfie video I would love to see. Don't forget your selfie stick.
Hank
skyricho said
Feb 4, 2018
BlueRidge wrote:
Diamond Roof Cleaning wrote:
I wouldnt go higher than the 80/100 psi switch.
We're running at about 120 so I was going to adjust it to about 90/110. Those switches can be adjusted to 80/100.
Do you rinse with mains (positive force)? My understanding is the booster discharge pressure with positive force is closer to 200 psi. Isn't a pressure switch rated for 120 PSI too low?
-- Edited by skyricho on Sunday 4th of February 2018 09:56:38 PM
Jim Prom said
Mar 3, 2018
There was a thread on Facebook about several guys who had problems with the Pro Switch, leaking oil, PWS is helping them out but a bunch of guys were upset for sure. Growing pains and debugging new things is always part of the process.
Art O said
Mar 3, 2018
Jim Prom wrote:
There was a thread on Facebook about several guys who had problems with the Pro Switch, leaking oil, PWS is helping them out but a bunch of guys were upset for sure. Growing pains and debugging new things is always part of the process.
This is what happens when things get complicated. Keeping things simple save a lot of aggravation and time
BlueRidge said
Mar 3, 2018
skyricho wrote:
BlueRidge wrote:
Diamond Roof Cleaning wrote:
I wouldnt go higher than the 80/100 psi switch.
We're running at about 120 so I was going to adjust it to about 90/110. Those switches can be adjusted to 80/100.
Do you rinse with mains (positive force)? My understanding is the booster discharge pressure with positive force is closer to 200 psi. Isn't a pressure switch rated for 120 PSI too low?
-- Edited by skyricho on Sunday 4th of February 2018 09:56:38 PM
We are using 3/4 HP and about 10 gpm. The pressure isn't anywhere near 200 psi. You can get commercial switches that will go pretty high.
BlueRidge said
Mar 3, 2018
Jim Prom wrote:
There was a thread on Facebook about several guys who had problems with the Pro Switch, leaking oil, PWS is helping them out but a bunch of guys were upset for sure. Growing pains and debugging new things is always part of the process.
I am still in R & D with this and will be spending a lot of time with one this month. I have no clue what they are doing but I do know you MUST have an isolator between the SH and the pressure switch or the SH will eat the diaphragm in the switch. For what those things cost they should have fully tested it well before excepting the first dollar! I can build one for under $150.00 with all the misc. parts.
Brian C Jackson said
Mar 3, 2018
I'm not even going to attempt a pressure switch. I will also be holding off on buying one until there proven
Liberty SoftWash said
Mar 4, 2018
Jim Prom wrote:
There was a thread on Facebook about several guys who had problems with the Pro Switch, leaking oil, PWS is helping them out but a bunch of guys were upset for sure. Growing pains and debugging new things is always part of the process.
There was a issue with a burr in the cup on pro switch from manufacturing and the bladder was rubbing and putting a hole in it. Once we found out what was causing it they fixed the problem.
Jim Prom said
Mar 4, 2018
That's great that they got it figured out. I knew it had to be something simple as the two that Tim made originally are still in service with no issues.
I have researched the best way to add a pressure switch to the booster and found the solution. I called both companies to make sure this will work before I posted. The biggest two problems with adding a pressure switch are the pressure cut on/off pressures. Most switches are too low for our needs and the SH will rot the diaphragm out quickly. Add an isolator will keep the SH out of the pressure switch. This can be done for about $130.00 per pump.
Isolator
Pressure Switch
We're running at about 120 so I was going to adjust it to about 90/110. Those switches can be adjusted to 80/100.
I just ordered two of each and will install at least one set when they arrive. I'll do the testing and let you know how it goes. I'll install the other set on truck two while I finish the build over the winter.
ProPortioner makes one called the ProSwitch. Not sure what they run. PWS carries them.
I'll order a bunch, get a better deal, put them together and put my logo on them and give you a deal of $300.00!
I got an email saying the supplier about doubled the price. I went with a different one so I don't know. I called the company after reading the info and found this will work. The recomended list was about 46.00. I got it on Amazon for 38.00. I bought three. One for back up.
Gauge Guard
Perfect Mario! The whole thing is to just get the pump to work just like a well pump as cheaply as possible!
As soon as the isolators get here I will be installing the set up, most likely next week. I'm not sure when I'll be able to test it since there is no water in the tank.
All the parts are in as of today. I finished the new remote for down streaming and the new float switch with 12V valve for the buffer tank today. Tomorrow I will start and hopefully finish the booster pressure switch. I'll post pictures of it all when I'm finished unless you would prefer a selfie video!
A selfie video I would love to see. Don't forget your selfie stick.
Hank
Do you rinse with mains (positive force)? My understanding is the booster discharge pressure with positive force is closer to 200 psi. Isn't a pressure switch rated for 120 PSI too low?
-- Edited by skyricho on Sunday 4th of February 2018 09:56:38 PM
This is what happens when things get complicated. Keeping things simple save a lot of aggravation and time
We are using 3/4 HP and about 10 gpm. The pressure isn't anywhere near 200 psi. You can get commercial switches that will go pretty high.
I am still in R & D with this and will be spending a lot of time with one this month. I have no clue what they are doing but I do know you MUST have an isolator between the SH and the pressure switch or the SH will eat the diaphragm in the switch. For what those things cost they should have fully tested it well before excepting the first dollar! I can build one for under $150.00 with all the misc. parts.
There was a issue with a burr in the cup on pro switch from manufacturing and the bladder was rubbing and putting a hole in it. Once we found out what was causing it they fixed the problem.