Power Washing and Roof Cleaning Forum

DirtyRoofcom · Approved Exterior Cleaner

bulkhead and fresh water rinsing

Zach Maynard · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Use a 2 way ball valve or banjo valve for your intake line (put it a foot or so from the pump). Have one end of it enter the pump through the top mounted bulkhead, and the other could have a little 6 foot line that can be used to fill your tanks or to rinse out your system out of a bucket.
So just flip the valve when you want to suck out of one and not the other.

lkendall · Approved Exterior Cleaner

i think he means a 3 way ball valve- 1 to chem tank, one to pump, one to rinse hose?

Zach Maynard · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Yes indeed Lee thank you.

DirtyRoofcom · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Thanks that will work as a diverter. but can i place a bulkhead at the top of a rounded tank?

Zach Maynard · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Absolutely, when you tighten it will flatten and be water tight.

DirtyRoofcom · Approved Exterior Cleaner

awesome! any special bulkhead for chemical resistance

John Aloisio · Approved Exterior Cleaner

If you get them from banjo make sure you ask for a three way choice valve. That is what they are called, they ruin about forty bucks

Art O · Approved Exterior Cleaner

GRANGER HAS A GOOD PRICE IN THEM AND YOU CAN GO THERE AND PICK IT UP AND SAVE ON SHIPPING. SORRY FOR THE CAPS NOT GOING TO TYPE THIS OVER AGAIN.

SprayWash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Our secret for getting the last little bit out are some heavy duty rubber tire chocks or three 2X6 boards ( about 3 foot long) we drive up on when needed. Put them on the passenger side, pull forward three feet and you can virtually empty the tank due to the increase angle.

So people call me a genius...others call me a madman....

DirtyRoofcom · Approved Exterior Cleaner

ray i have the same style tank. you dont have a problem with the bulkheads on the bottom?

Zach Maynard · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Half of my tank are bulkhead on the bottom... I never had any issues until recently The threads had cracked on the bulkhead. I believe it was from handling and storage though not from chem deterioration.

SprayWash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

In 4 years i've probably replaced 2 bulkheads. About once per 1.5 years I totally strip trailer down and reweld/repaint/remodel. I have more of a problem with PVC breaking than I do bulkheads. Will be going Flex tube during the next breakdown.

Dave O · Retired Member

Erik, you must have been reading my mind. I also use a 7 gallon container of fresh water to rinse the system. I have been thinking of doing what you plan on doing using a 3-way valve interconnecting the pump, chemical tank and rinse tank.

Accuwash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

DRAW TUBE

Patrick G · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Erik just a little something on the trailer so you don't have a bigger problem. I think the Sh will go bad in a clear tank out in the sun....maybe paint it or cover it. Leaving your 5 gal S/H on the trailer will give you 3 problems. 1 you are letting every newbie know what you are using. 2 if you get in an accident that s/h is going flying and you will have a roadway spill, cops...fire and hazmat you will be screwed. 3 If the traffic inspectors/code enforcement see the way they are secured the summones will make your head spin. They stop landscaping rigs and such and tee off on them for things poorly secured, they will have no sympathy for you its all about bringing in money to the town...Good Luck.

Accuwash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

I have some vids I just made, but have to load to youtube. Ill try to get them up later. Good points Pat

Art O · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Bill you seen to be enjoying our company tonight. Thanks for stopping in.

Accuwash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Love you guys Art. Just don't spend a lot of time on forums.

Capital Roof Wash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Erik, perfect timing on your question because I just retrofitted my rig last week. I did a total overhaul last winter and plumbed the bulkheads to eliminate from drawing from the top with a draw tube. Only problem was I wasn't able to rinse the pump every day like I did before. Within 4 months, my 5850 was on it's way to Delavan heaven.

With a little bit of thought, a pad of paper and a few carbonated beverages, I came up with this! (picture below). When I am finished at the end of the day, I close both ball valves and screw on the garden hose to the fitting and rinse away. It's just a tee between the ball vaves, with a female garden hose fitting. In the top is a brass plug so no debris gets in the line when not in use.

-- Edited by Capital Roof Wash on Monday 28th of April 2014 09:15:01 PM

John Aloisio · Approved Exterior Cleaner

Great idea Ray.

The only thing I think everyone should be considering is using 3/4" clear poly hose, instead of PVC pipe. It takes the humps and bumps easier and does not leak at fittings much. Worst thing you ever have to do is tighten a hose clamp. Just my opinion.

Dave O · Retired Member

John Aloisio wrote:
Great idea Ray.
The only thing I think everyone should be considering is using 3/4" clear poly hose, instead of PVC pipe. It takes the humps and bumps easier and does not leak at fittings much. Worst thing you ever have to do is tighten a hose clamp. Just my opinion.

That's great advise John.

Capital Roof Wash · Approved Exterior Cleaner

John Aloisio wrote:
Great idea Ray.
The only thing I think everyone should be considering is using 3/4" clear poly hose, instead of PVC pipe. It takes the humps and bumps easier and does not leak at fittings much. Worst thing you ever have to do is tighten a hose clamp. Just my opinion.

Two comments on your comment John. First is, it was a great idea but the pressure from the hose does not let the pressure switch kick in and the water just flows thru the pump without running. I want the pump to cycle during the end of the day flush. To fix this, I have retrofitted a 6' length of 3/4" poly to drop into a 5 gallon bucket (pictures coming soon).

As for your 3/4" poly braid hose comment .... you must have been reading my mind because that is what I was thinking of doing but stopped short just because I had the parts and needed to get it back together before I lost a few jobs. LOL

I traded some Soft Wash work for welding and re-plumbing of the tanks and when I got it back, it had the 1/2" PVC line going straight to the pump. Previously, I had a 3/4" drop tube and from day one of getting the rig back, that is exactly what I wanted (3/4" poly). It was my fault because I didn't specify the size/material.

When the ball valves start to stiffen up (even with schedule 80 pvc), I'll cut it all out and replace it with the 3/4" poly.

Thanks John for bringing this up and letting me explain my learning curves and to help others down the road! This is what the forum is all about!!!